Page 203 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

190 Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

applied as a paste and printed in a regular pattern. The adhesives that may be used
for fusible interlinings are polyamide, polyester, low- and high-density polyethylene,
polyvinyl chloride, polypropylene, and polyvinyl acetate. The fusing characteristics of
the most widely used adhesives are as follows:
Polyamide: used for interlinings in fusing a wide variety of fabrics, fusing for the main parts
●
of ladies' and men's outerwear, fronts and facings. Washable up to 60°C and durable in dry
cleaning. Fusing temperature is 130–150°C (also 110–130°C).
Low-density polyethylene (LDPE): used for interlinings to fuse small components: armholes,
●
fitting pieces, pocket flaps, straps, waistbands, pocket openings, belt loops, etc. Fusing tem-
perature is 125–135°C.
High-density polyethylene (HDPE): used in interlinings for fusing components of men's
●
shirts: collars (top fuse), cuffs, and plackets. Washable up to 95°C. Fusing temperature is
160–170°C.
Polyester: used in interlinings for fusing the components of ladies' wear such as blouses,
●
effective in fusing polyester fabrics. Washable up to 40°C. Fusing temperature is 130–150°C
(also 110–130°C and 120–140°C).
Interlinings are also characterized by their weight. Taking into account the con-
temporary fashion requirement to create small, soft shapes, the main components of
2
different garments are fused with 20–35 g/m (light blouse fabrics, small components
2
of ladies' jackets, and fine outerwear), 30–40 g/m (dresses and ladies' jackets), and
2
40–70 g/m (thick fabric and outerwear) interlinings.
Interlining must be carefully matched to its outer fabric. The important criteria are
the touch, the feel of the outer fabric/interlining composite, the adhesion strength of
the interlining with the outer fabric, and the care features of laundry and dry-cleaning
resistance. Producers of fusible interlinings define their products by several qualities:
composition, weight, width, weave, coating, colour, care requirements, and fusing
conditions (temperature, pressure, and time).

12.2.1 Ensuring a high-quality fusing process
Reaction to the fusing process differs for every face fabric and its fusible interlining.
Tests are necessary to define the optimal parameters for the fusing process and to esti-
mate the probable shrinkage level before the actual fusing starts.

12.2.2 Determination of the fusing parameters
The optimal interlining and fusing parameters are established during the sample mak-
ing process for each style and its face fabrics. When the customer is content with the
shape of the garment and the quality of the fused components, the article number of
the face fabric, its chosen interlining, and the corresponding fusing parameters are
accepted and written into the specification of the style.
However, the quality of the face fabrics and interlinings used in making samples
does not always conform to the materials delivered for production. The face fabrics
and their interlinings have therefore to be tested again to verify the fusing parameters
previously accepted. In the ideal situation, the optimal fusing parameters– temperature,