Page 249 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

236 Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

9 7
5 3

1 2

6 4
10 8

Fig. 14.36 Marker on the fabric with border pattern.

To achieve symmetry in the pattern placed on the cut components, the central
symmetrical axis on the pattern pieces is also marked (see Fig. 14.36; components
1 and 2).
The standard placement of pattern pieces on the fabric aligns their grain lines
with the fabric warp. Different pattern pieces of a single article may also be placed
in opposing or differing directions to achieve the most efficient use of fabric (see
Fig. 14.36). The small pattern pieces are positioned on or between the border pattern
according to the design of the style and the most efficient use of fabric. The marker
length is influenced by the size of the repetition and the number of articles placed in
the marker.

14.4.2 Marker making in materials with large separated
ornamental groups

Marker making is done manually and directly onto the fabric to enable precise coordi-
nation of the pattern. On the main pattern pieces, special lines are marked to determine
the placement. For example, the lines limiting pattern placement are marked if the pat-
tern has to be placed in the middle of a component (see Fig. 14.37B). If the pattern is
placed close to two sides of a component, it is oriented by these (see Fig. 14.37A). The
main pattern pieces are first positioned precisely on the fabric pattern (see Fig. 14.38;
component 2). The other pattern pieces are then placed on free areas of the fabric. The
information about the placement of patterns on fabric is obtained from the style sam-
ple and its technical documentation. If the patterns are large and occupy the greater
part of the fabric (see Fig. 14.35E), accurate placement of the pattern pieces will be
needed for most of the components (see Fig. 14.39).