Page 254 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

Multi-ply processing of styles 15

from intricate pattern textiles

15.1 Introduction

Traditionally, multi-ply spreading and cutting of styles from intricate pattern fabrics
is performed using manual work methods. They can ensure good pattern-matching
quality; however, material spreading matching fabric pattern is very much time-
consuming, and experienced workers with specific knowledge have to be involved in
the work process. Several new work methods and software are developed to increase
work productivity and reduce dependence of the work process from human resources.

15.2 Manual spreading and cutting

Markers for styles (garment, upholstery, textile accessories, and others) from intri-
cate pattern fabrics are created placing pattern pieces directly onto the fabric ply (see
Chapter 14). The length of a spread is determined from the length of the marker. At the
end of the spreading, the fabric ply with marker will be placed on the top of the spread
to perform the cutting of the components.
The coordination of pattern in all fabric plies is an important task during the manual
multi-ply spreading of the intricate pattern fabrics. This significantly complicates the
work process as several additional actions that are not required for plain fabrics have
to be performed. Because of accuracy problems in the manual cutting (see Chapter 7,
Section 7.4), the work process is performed in one to three steps:
The first step: the first spreading and rough cutting of components or their blocks;
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The second step: the second spreading and fine cutting of the components;
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The third step: the third spreading and final fine cutting can be used after components are
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fused with their interlinings.
In some situations, where the spreading length is short and the spread consists of a
small number of plies and the surface of the fabric is not slippery, only the first spread-
ing operation and fine cutting need to be done. One-step work process is also normally
carried out for knitted striped fabrics (see Fig. 15.1). In other situations, both the first
spreading and rough cutting and the second spreading and fine cutting are used. If any
displacement of the fabric plies occurs during the fine cutting of fused components
after their fusing process, they can be recut the third time (see Section 15.2.3).

Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-08-102122-4.00015-9
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