Page 257 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

244 Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

In the central part of the lay: to balance both sides of the fabric and to coordinate the pattern
●
from the centre to its sides.
Beneath the main patterned components: pins are placed at the most important pattern
●
points.
The pins must not be placed too close to the sides of the pattern pieces, or they will
impede the subsequent cutting process. They are usually placed in the central part of
the large pattern pieces or between them. The use of pins limits the maximum length
of a marker to 2.5 –3m. The process is work- and time-intensive but helps to prevent
the displacement of fabric plies and increases the quality of the pattern coordination.
The patterned components are initially cut to a larger size in roughly rectangular
blocks leaving a fabric allowance around their edges (see Figs 15.6 and 15.7, bold
lines). The fabric allowance provides precise coordination of the pattern during the
second spreading. The fabric allowance around fusible components compensates for
shrinkage of the fabric after the fusing process. In case of fabrics with motif pat-
terns, the rough cutting is done for patterned components, fusible components, small
components (with and without pattern), and components of complex shape (with and
without pattern) (see Fig. 15.8; components 2, 6, 7, 8, and 9). The rough cutting of
components is usually performed by a straight-knife machine. The small components
without pattern (on fabrics with motif patterns) are cut roughly as their precise cutting
cannot be done by a straight-knife machine. Their fine cutting will be performed using
a band knife during the second cutting operation.
Symmetrical fronts are placed in the marker with their front edges together and
cut in one block (see Fig. 15.6, components 1 and 2; Fig. 15.7, components 1 and 2).

15.2.2 The second spreading and fine cutting

The second spreading is performed to achieve precise matching of the pattern in all
roughly cut components. This can be done in several ways:

4 2 1

7 6

5 3

Fig. 15.6 Cutting out components into approximate rectangles from striped fabric.