Page 262 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

Multi-ply processing of styles from intricate pattern textiles 249

Pattern piece of symmetrical
components

Components with the
Separating reverse side down
paper Components with the
reverse side up

Pin Pin
Fig. 15.16 The spreading of symmetrical components in one lay with two halves of the lay
face up and down, respectively.

15.2.2.3 The spreading of symmetrical components in one lay
with the bottom half of the lay spread face down and
the top half of the lay spread face up
Spreading symmetrical components together in one lay saves time. In this method of
second spreading, the fabric for all the symmetrical components of one side of the
garment is spread with the reverse side up (or their face side down). A separating paper
sheet is then placed on top of the lay. The fabric for all the symmetrical components
of the other side of the garment is placed on top of this, with the reverse side down (or
the face side up) (see Fig. 15.16). One pattern piece is placed onto the combined lay,
and all the components are cut simultaneously by a band knife.

15.2.3 The second and third cutting of fused components

Fused components are also spread for a second time, and the fabric allowance remain-
ing after the fusing process is cut off. Their fine cutting is done by a band-knife ma-
chine. However, if any displacement of the fabric plies occurs during the fine cutting,
a more precise placement of patterns along most important edges (the neck and arm
line) is carried out manually, using shears.

15.3 Semiautomated spreading and cutting

Semiautomated pattern matching and cutting of multi-ply spreads includes four sep-
arate work steps:
Formation of a multi-ply spread matching its pattern using a pin table or overhead projector.
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Creation of an initial marker based on the parameters of the fabric pattern using any
●
marker-making software that can work with patterned fabrics.
Adjustment of the initial marker matching it perfectly with the pattern of the spread on the
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1
cutting table using pattern-matching software ‘Visual Nesť by Morgan Tecnica, ‘Match Iť
2
3
by Bullmer, ‘In Vision’ by Gerber, or ‘Mosaic’ by Lectra. 4
Automated cutting of the fabric spread by a low-ply or a high-ply cutter.
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1 http://www.morgantecnica.com
2 http://www.topcut-bullmer.com
3 http://www.gerbertechnology.com
4 https://www.lectra.com