Page 263 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

250 Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

15.3.1 Formation of a multi-ply spread matching fabric pattern

Multi-ply spreads are performed manually, matching the pattern in all fabric plies.
Instead of separate metal needles put on the traditional spreading table, specialized
needle tables and overhead projectors can be used to coordinate pattern in between
fabric plies.

15.3.1.1 Pin table (needle table)
1
5
Companies Morgan Tecnica (Italy), Veith System (Germany), and Caron
6
Technology (Italy) have developed special pin tables to ease pattern matching in
between fabric plies.
Pin tables by Veith System have a slotted top and needle bars fixed into the slots
(see Fig. 15.17). The needle bars may be moved freely along the length of the table and
positioned in certain places in accordance with the parameters of each fabric pattern
and marker. Working with tubular knitted fabrics, the needle bars can be even turned
up to an angle of 13 degrees to match slanted stripes of the fabric. The height of the
pins is adjustable to coordinate with the height of the fabric lay. Each pin can be indi-
vidually locked down if its use in the spreading process is not needed.
Pin tables by ‘Morgan Tecnica’ have grid of holes in their surface (10 × 10 cm)
where the pins are fixed in the needed height in accordance with fabric pattern and the
marker qualities. The tables also are equipped with a special conveyor system to move
the ready fabric spread with matched pattern to cutting area.
The fabric parameters are measured (width and repeat size) manually. Using any
marker-making software that can work with intricate patterned fabrics, a marker is
created matching the patterns for all the components of the style. When the marker is
ready, the exact positions required for the needles in the pin table are determined by
the PinIT software (Veith System), or the marker and fabric pattern grid are projected
on the pin table by the help of an overhead projector (Morgan Tecnica). The fabric
is laid onto the pins forming multi-ply spreads with patterns matched between the
plies. Finally, the cutting process can be carried out using manual or automated cutting
methods.

Slot Pin

Fig. 15.17 A pin table.
5 http://www.veith-system.de
6 http://www.carontechnology.com