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18     Advances in textile biotechnology


              presented higher tensile strength and lower felting and pilling, along with
              lower weight loss, which indicates that the new developed enzyme only
              hydrolyzed the cuticle layer of wool (Araújo et al., 2009). This new high
              molecular weight subtilisinE-VPAVG 220  represents a breakthrough in the

              wool-finishing process, promising to be an alternative to the traditional
              highly polluting chlorine/Hercosett treatment. In addition, this enzyme can
              be included in new detergent formulations that can be used to wash all types
              of garments, including silk and wool.
                Finally, the cost of enzyme production is a major obstacle to the success-
              ful application of proteases in textile industry. Protease yields have been
              improved by screening for hyperproducing strains and/or by optimization
              of the fermentation medium. Strain improvements either by conventional
              mutagenesis or recombinant-DNA technology have been useful in improv-
              ing the production of proteases. Most, if not all, Bacillus detergent proteases
              currently are recombinant, genetically engineered products, secreted by
              overproducing strains.


              1.4.5 Lipases/esterases
              Esterases represent a diverse group of hydrolases that catalyze the cleavage
              and formation of ester bonds. They are widely distributed in animals, plants
              and micro-organisms. These enzymes show a wide substrate tolerance and
              high regio- and stereospecificity, which make them attractive biocatalysts

              for the production of optically pure compounds in fi ne-chemicals synthesis.
              They do not require cofactors, are usually rather stable and are even active
              in organic solvents (Bornscheuer, 2002). Two major classes of hydrolases
              are of most importance: lipases (triacylglycerol hydrolases) and ‘true’ este-
              rases (carboxyl ester hydrolases).
                Most of the alterations introduced in esterases/lipases address detergent
              use and surfactant compatibility. Oxidative stability, important for proteases
              and amylases, is not the major interest in the case of lipases, since many
              lipases are already stable in oxidative reagents. In  Candida antarctica B
              lipase the exchange of Met at position 72 by Leu resulted in an increased
              stability towards oxidation by peroxyoctanoic acid (Patkar et al., 1998). A
              few studies also report the substitution of Met in lipases from Pseudomonas
              sp. by other residues to prevent the inactivation by oxidation in oxidative
              detergents (Van der Laan et al., 1994).
                Regarding calcium independency, Simons  et al. (1999) engineered  S.
              hyicus lipase by site-directed mutagenesis. Based on sequence alignment to
              other lipase sequences, from P. glumae for example, the aspartate residues

              in position 354 and 357 were identified as calcium-binding ligands and
              replacement of Asp357 by a glutamate decreased the affinity for calcium

              ions by 30-fold. Introduction of a lysine, an asparagine, or an alanine at
              position 357 and of a lysine or an asparagine at position 354 resulted in


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