Page 311 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

304 Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

with finished garments, for example, to determine potential excess volume in the
crotch area that occurs as a result of lowering the waistband or belt level. According
to measurements taken in the research—crotch lengths of finished products, undressed
and dressed scanned bodies—it is concluded that trousers are designed for wearing the
waistband at traditional anthropometric waist level, but already dressed body mea-
surements show that all the excess volume of the garment is placed in the crotch area
when the wearer chooses to lower waistband level.
The potential of the noncontact method lies in the arrangement of size systems for
large target groups, when the obtained information is centrally processed and used
further for supply implementation preventing disparities in sizing systems, which
can occur if the necessary sizes are indicated by each wearer. For clarity, labeling
of clothes in accordance with EN 13402-3:2014 (2014) [Size Designation of Clothes.
Part 3: Body measurements and intervals] interval pictograms supplemented by letter
designations may be used.

11.4 Design of protective clothing

Construction of garment is a material composition of the garment, which is charac-
terized by the number of cut and other details, by materials, by the package of textile
materials, by the configurations, sizes and connections.

11.4.1 Ease allowances

The ease allowance is an algebraic difference of numerical values or (less frequently)
its relative expression as a percentage of the control measurement characterizing the
outer surface of the finished garment and its decisive standard figure measurement or
the corresponding customer’s figure measurement. Depending on the location there
are chest/bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, upper arm cir-
cumference, armhole depth, etc. ease allowances, which numeric values for example
in the case of tights, corsets and extensible garments tend to be negative. Functionally
distinguishable physiologically minimal, movement comfort, silhouette, etc. ease
allowances [ISO/TR 10652].
Forexample,theanalysiscarriedoutbyresearchinstituteinMoscow(Центральный
Научно-ИсследовательскийИнститут ШвейнойПромышленности)onspecial
clothing structures (male and female) has revealed that the ease allowance of bust is
required within the limits of 9–17cm. This allowance 5–8 times exceeds the size interval
for half-bust girth (which is 2cm). This has allowed to increase the interval of interme-
diate sizes and, accordingly, reducing the number of sizes without reducing consumer
satisfactionwiththefitatthesametime.Asaresult,itisconcludedthatreducingthenum-
ber of sizes allows for a 40% reduction in the cost of materials and labor costs (Амирова
and Сакулина,1985).