Page 312 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

Sizing and fit for protective clothing 305

11.4.2 Dynamic allowances

However, the design of protective clothing used in various types of work, where the
wearer carries out his characteristic body movements, also requires the use of dynamic
ease allowances ensuring the fit of clothing during these movements. If databases of
body measurements gained in standard stand position are widely available, there is
relatively no common information sources about human body dynamic parameters
or changes in body measurements due to movements.
Dynamics can be characterized both by decrease and increase of body measure-
ments, taking into account the wide range of human body movements and uncertainty
of displacement directions of the anthropometric points during the movements. In
addition, it can be affected by various factors, such as a person’s belonging to a par-
ticular age-sex group, individual characteristics of body composition, physical
fitness, etc.
For motion description and research, it is initially worthwhile to study body size
changes (increases and decreases of lengths and circumferences) at the extreme head,
torso, and limb states. With such an approach, the patternmaker will be able to apply
not only the required mean values of measurements, but also the maximum increments
obtained in the extreme position measurements (Preedy, 2012).
Considering the use of dynamic indicators in clothing pattern design, it should be
noted that, if in the case of lingerie and sports clothing, knitted fabrics are used to
ensure freedom of movements, then in design of protective clothing outerwear made
from nonrigid fabrics without the use of appropriate ease allowances, expansions/
extensions may be allowed in certain garment areas (McCann and Bryson, 2009a).
The obtained dynamic indicators can be used to a reasonable extent on the ease allow-
ances associated with significant body measurements for patternmaking, such as waist
and chest circumferences, back width, length and slope, the distance from the back
armpit fold to the waist, the upper arm and elbow circumferences, the distance from
the back armpit fold to the wrist, the hip/buttock circumference, etc. (Sakharev and
Boytsov, 1981).

11.4.3 Design solutions

In addition to ease and dynamic allowances, there can be various constructive and
technological solutions, which may be applied in cases, when, for instance, due to var-
ious reasons, it is not possible to include dynamic indicators in ease allowance values
completely. In order to ensure free movements, one may use, for instance, pleats,
inserts (also elastic), wedges, slits, gaps or openings, anatomical seams, and preshaped
sleeves and trouser legs. Other additional solutions to ensure easiness of moves are
differentiation of the silhouette of the garment, or various types of cut.
However, in the design of work, sport, and special clothing, the use of a loose sil-
houette considered as a suitable solution is also assessed only in cases involving
aspects such as work safety and loads that may be caused by additional weight of
clothing and the physical volumes of the products. The design of protective clothing
shall guard against parts of the body being uncovered by expected movements of the