Page 211 - Cosmetology

emollient. Supple, waxlike, lubricating, thickening agents that prevent water loss and have a softening and
soothing effect on the skin. They can be natural, like plant oils; manufactured, like silicones; or processed
from a natural substance, like mineral oil. The assortment of technical-sounding names for all these
ingredients is nothing less than astounding. There are more of them than you can imagine. They range from
cetearyl alcohol to isopropyl myristate, triglycerides, myristic acid, palmitic acid, PEG-60 hydrogenated
castor oil, glyceryl linoleate, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, hexyl laurate, isohexadecane, methyl glucose
sesquioleate, decyl oleate, stearic acid, octyldodecanol, and thousands more. There are also more
understandable or at least familiar "natural" versions of emollients, such as lanolin, hydrogenated plant oils,
shea butter, and cocoa butter.

emu oil. The emu is a large, flightless bird indigenous to Australia, and emu oil has become an important
component of the Australian economy. As a result there is research from that part of the world showing it to
be a good emollient that can help heal skin. But there is no research showing it to have antiaging or
antiwrinkling effects. Emu oil in comparison to mineral oil was found overall to be more cosmetically
acceptable and had better skin penetration/permeability. Furthermore it appears that Emu oil in comparison
to mineral oil has better moisturizing properties, superior texture, and lower incidence of comedogenicity, but
probably because of the small sample size [number of people tested] these differences were not found to be
statistically significant. Neither of the oils were found to be irritating to the skin." That's good, but it's hardly a
reason to run out and by a product containing emu oil..

English ivy extract. Can be a skin irritant due to its stimulant and astringent (skin-constricting) properties
(Source: Natural Medicines Comprehensive Database, www.naturaldatabase.com).

Ensulizole. A sunscreen agent, formerly known as phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid. Ensulizole is the new
established name that must be used on sunscreen labels. It is primarily a UVB protecting sunscreen agent
providing only minimal UVA protection. Ensulizole’s range is 290 to 340 nanometers whereas the UVA
range is 320 to 400 nanometers. For complete UVA protection, this ingredient (as well as many other UVB
protecting sunscreen ingredients) must be paired with avobenzone (also called Parsol 1789 and butyl
methoxydibenzoylmethane), titanium dioxide, or zinc oxide; outside of the U.S. it can also be paired with
Tinosorb or Mexoryl SX (also called ecamsule). In July 2006, Mexoryl SX received FDA approval for use in a
single sunscreen, La Roche Posay’s Anthelios SX SPF 15. Because ensulizole is water-soluble, it has the
unique characteristic of feeling lighter on skin. As such, it is often used in sunscreen lotions or moisturizers
whose esthetic goal is a non-greasy finish.

Enteromorpha compressa extract. Extract from a form of green algae. See algae.

enzymes. A vast group of protein molecules produced by all living things to affect chemical and biological
reactions whether it is photosynthesis, helping cells communicate, or inhibiting free-radical damage. As they
are used in skin-care products, enzymes facilitate exfoliation, to help overall biological processes in skin that
have slowed down because of age or sun damage, and to inhibit free-radical damage. Enzymes accelerate
chemical reactions in a cell that would proceed minimally or not at all if the enzymes weren't present. Most
enzymes are finicky about how they interact. Sometimes it takes several enzymes to produce one chemical
reaction, and they are influenced by temperature and pH. Some enzymes depend on the presence of
smaller enzymes, called coenzymes, in order to function or a specific body temperature must be in place. It
would take an exceptionally complicated process to stimulate enzyme activity in the skin. Enzymes are
divided into six main categories including oxidoreductases, transferases, hydrolases, lyases, isomerases,
and ligases. The names of most individual enzymes end in –ase. See bromelain, papain, and
oxidoreductases.

Ephedra sinica extract. Extract from a Chinese herb also known as Ma huang; it has a high tannin and
volatile oil content and toxic properties.

epidermal growth factor (EGF). Stimulates cell division of m.There is also research showing that its effect
is no different then placebo and may not be effective. It can have anti-inflammatory properties when applied
to skin, though it can also promote tumor growth.

Epilobium angustifolium extract. Derived from a plant commonly known as fireweed or willow herb. Can
have antimicrobial and anti-irritant properties for skin.

Equisetum arvense. See horsetail extract.