Page 212 - Cosmetology

Equisetum hiemale extract. See horsetail extract.

ergocalciferol. Technical name for vitamin D. See vitamin D.

ergothioneine. Component of animal tissue that has potent antioxidant properties.

Eriobotrya japonica. See loquat extract.

erucic acid. Fatty acid. See fatty acid.

erythritol. Naturally occurring sugar found in plants and animals. Like all sugars, it has water-binding
properties.

erythropoietin (Epo). Stimulates the growth of cells that carry oxygen throughout the body. See human
growth factor.

erythrulose. Substance chemically similar to the self-tanning agent dihydroxyacetone. Depending on your
skin color, there can be a difference in the color effect with erythrulose. However, dihydroxyacetone
completely changes the color of skin within two to six hours, while erythrulose needs about two to three days
for the skin to show a color change.

escin. Derived from horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum), this ingredient has been prescribed as an
oral supplement to reduce some symptoms of chronic vein insufficiency, such as varicose veins, pain,
tiredness, tension, swelling in the legs, itching, and edema. However, because horse chestnut contains
significant amounts of the toxin esculin, it can be lethal and other experts recommend not using it. When
applied topically, however, there is research showing that a gel containing 2% escin can improve circulation.
Results from another study showed a reduction in inflammation in sport-injury when escin was combined
with heparin (a mucopolysaccharide used as an anti-clotting medication), and a form of salicylic acid
(diethylammonium salicylate). Escin is also a potent antioxidant. As a skin-care ingredient escin clearly has
a place, but as for improving cellulite that’s another story. While it may seem logical that blood flow and
cellulite are related the research just isn’t there to support the notion, or your thighs. Plus, cellulite products
contain far less of this ingredient than the amount used in the studies.

esculin. Component of horse chestnut, it is considered a toxin and not recommended for skin.

essential oils. See volatile oil.

Ester-C. Trade name for a combination form of vitamin C that contains mainly calcium ascorbate, but in
addition contains small amounts of the vitamin C metabolites dehydroascorbic acid (oxidized ascorbic acid),
calcium threonate, and trace levels of xylonate and lyxonate. In their literature, the manufacturers state that
the metabolites, especially threonate, increase the bioavailability of the vitamin C in this product, and that
they have performed a study in humans demonstrating the increased bioavailability of vitamin C in Ester-C.
This study has not been published in a peer-reviewed journal. A small published study of vitamin C
bioavailability in eight women and one man found no difference between Ester-C and commercially available
ascorbic acid tablets with respect to the absorption and excretion of vitamin C. There are studies showing
Ester-C to have no differences when compared to ascorbic acid.

estradiol. One of the three main forms of estrogen produced by the body; the other two are estrone and
estriol. Estradiol is the most physiologically active form of estrogen. Many hormone replacement therapy
(HRT) and birth control prescription drugs contain estradiol. Decreased production of estrogen by the
ovaries can lead to symptoms such as hot flashes, night sweats, vaginal dryness, urinary tract infections,
depression, and irritability. With a physician's prescription, licensed pharmacists may compound a
combination of natural estrogens. Whether or not natural estrogens are safe has not been well-researched.

Even though HRT can prevent associated problems with loss of estrogen in perimenopausal and
menopausal women, it is no longer being prescribed without caution because of studies showing there to be
an increased the risk of breast cancer, heart attacks, strokes, gallbladder disease and blood clots.

Topically, according to the FDA, "The estrogen content of an OTC product, be it a drug or a drug as well as
cosmetic, may not exceed 10,000 IU per ounce, and users must be directed to limit the amount of product
applied daily so that no more than 20,000 IU of estrogen or equivalent be used per month. Some estrogen-
containing products have been claiming to prevent or reduce wrinkles, treat seborrhea, or stimulate hair