Page 216 - Cosmetology

action of free-radical damage takes place in a fraction of a second. Antioxidants are substances that prevent
oxidative damage from being triggered. See antioxidant.

fructose. Often called fruit sugar; a type of sugar composed of glucose. It has water-binding properties for
skin. See water-binding agent.

fruit acid. See sugarcane extract.

Fu ling. See Poria cocos extract.

Fucus serratus extract. See algae.

Fucus vesiculosus extract. See bladderwrack extract.

fuller's earth. Mineral substance that is similar to kaolin (a clay). Composed mainly of alumina, silica, iron
oxides, lime, magnesia, and water, it is used as an absorbent and thickening agent in cosmetics.
G

GABA. GABA (gamma aminobutyric acid/ gamma amino-butyric acid) is an amino acid synthesized in the
brain that acts as a neurotransmitter inhibitor and is associated with reducing the incidences of seizures and
depression. Cosmetic companies use GABA in products claiming to relax muscles topically, thus sparing
consumers from going through Botox® injections. However, GABA has not been proven to relax muscles
and reduce the appearance of wrinkles or expression lines when applied topically. Cosmetic companies are
hoping consumers will associate the topical application of products containing GABA with its internal
function of controlling the manner in which nerve impulses fire. There is no substantiated research proving
GABA works in this manner when applied topically, and if it did, it would be cause for alarm. If GABA worked
as stated and you applied it to your entire face, what’s to stop it from affecting the muscles around your
mouth, jaw, or neck? If it really relaxed muscles upon application, consumers would see more skin sagging,
not to mention problems controlling the (relaxed) muscles in your fingers (assuming they come in contact
with the product).

Lastly, the whole nonsense of using GABA in cosmetic products is refuted by the fact that GABA does not
work alone to exert its (internal) effect on nerves. It requires many other substances (substances that are not
present in the products containing GABA) in order for it to prevent nerves from being triggered and causing
muscles to relax.

galactoarabinan. Polysaccharide extracted from the western larch tree. See mucopolysaccharide.

galbanum. Fragrant substance that, because of its resin and volatile oil content, can be extremely irritating
and sensitizing on abraded skin. There is no research showing it to have any benefit on skin.

gamma linolenic acid. Also known as GLA, a fatty acid used in cosmetics as an emollient, antioxidant, and
cell regulator. GLA is considered to promote healthy skin growth and is an anti-inflammatory agent. GLA is
found in black currant oil or seeds, evening primrose oil, and borage oil. However, there is no research
showing GLA to be effective in the treatment of wrinkles. When taken orally, GLA has been shown to have
some anticancer properties, but there is no research showing that effect translates to skin. See fatty acid.

Gan jiang. See ginger extract.

Ganoderma lucidum extract. Mushroom stem extract. There is a good deal of animal and in vitro studies
showing this extract to be effective when taken orally as possibly having antitumor, immune modulating,
anticoagulant, cholesterol lowering, antiviral, and antibacterial properties. However, there is no research
showing it to be effective when used topically on skin though it does have antioxidant properties.

Gaultheria shallon. May have antioxidant activity for skin.

gelatin. Protein obtained from plants or animals and used in cosmetics as a thickening agent.

Gellidiela acerosa extract. Derived from a type of algae. See algae.

gentian violet extract. Has anti-irritant and antibacterial properties.

geranium extract. Can have potent antioxidant properties.