Page 215 - Cosmetology

widely used in skin-care products, particularly moisturizers. These range from PVP to acrylates,
acrylamides, and copolymers. When applied they leave a pliable, cohesive, and continuous covering over
the hair or skin. This film produces excellent water-binding properties and leaves a smooth feel on skin.
Film-forming agents can be skin sensitizers for some individuals.

fir needle oil. Volatile, fragrant oil that can cause skin irritation and sensitivity.

fireweed. From the Epilobium angustifolium plant; also known as willow herb. See Epilobium angustifolium
extract.

fish cartilage extract. May have water-binding properties, but there is no research showing this to have any
benefit for skin.

flavonoid. See bioflavonoid.

flax. Plant source of linen and edible seeds. Seeds and seed oil have antioxidant properties. Seeds are also
a source of linolenic acid. See linolenic acid.

flaxseed oil. From seeds of the flax plant; a source of fatty acids. See flax.

floralozone. One of a number of synthetic fragrant components.

Foeniculum vulgare extract. See fennel seed extract.

folic acid. Part of the B-vitamin complex; when taken orally, it is considered a good antioxidant. That benefit
has not been demonstrated when it is applied topically on skin.

Fomes officinalis. The scientific name for a fungus (mushroom) commonly called brown trunk rot. There is
no research showing this to have benefit for skin.

formaldehyde-releasing preservative. A common type of preservative found in cosmetics. However, there
is no higher level of skin reaction to formaldehyde-releasing preservatives than to other preservatives. In
fact, there is a far greater risk to skin from a product without preservatives, owing to the contamination and
unchecked growth of bacteria, fungus, and mold that can result. However, there is concern that when
formaldehyde-releasing preservatives are present in a formulation with amines, such as triethanolamine
(TEA), diethanolamine (DEA), or monoethanolamine (MEA), that nitrosamines can then be formed, because
nitrosamines are carcinogenic substances that can potentially penetrate skin. Whether or not that poses a
health risk of any kind has not been established. See preservatives.

fragrance. One or a blend of either volatile and/or fragrant plant oils (or synthetically derived oils) that impart
aroma and odor to products. These are often skin irritants.

frangipani. See Plumeria alba flower extract.

Frangula alnus extract. Extract from the Alder Buckthorn or Dogweed tree. Used orally as a laxative. There
is no research showing this extract to have any benefit for skin.

frankincense extract. Fragrant component used in skin-care products; it can be a skin irritant. There is no
research showing frankincense to have any benefit for skin.

free-radical damage. It is now medically recognized that degenerative skin conditions, such as wrinkles and
skin discolorations, are caused primarily by free-radical damage. The primary causes of free-radical damage
are air and sunlight, but it can also be triggered by cigarette smoke, herbicides, pesticides, pollution, and
solvents. Antioxidants are a way to reduce and potentially neutralize the rampage of free-radical damage.

Free-radical damage takes place on an atomic level. Molecules are made of atoms, and a single atom is
made up of protons, neutrons, and electrons. Electrons are always found in pairs. However, when oxygen
molecules are involved in a chemical reaction, they can lose one of their electrons. This oxygen molecule
that now has only one electron is called a free radical. With only one electron the oxygen molecule must
quickly find another electron, and it does this by taking the electron from another molecule. When that
molecule in turn loses one of its electrons, it too must seek out another, in a continuing reaction. Molecules
attempting to repair themselves in this way trigger a cascading event called "free-radical damage." The