Page 113 - Pipelines and Risers
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86                                                                Chapter 6

          Figure 6.1 shows the parameters that are used when defining a 2D regular long-crested wave
          propagating in the positive x-direction.








                                                                    X
                       zb I






          Figure 6.1 Parameters used when defining 2D regular waves.
          where:
              L    Wave length.
              H    Wave height.
              d    zs - zb = still water depth.
              a    Wave amplitude cH/2).
              T    Wave period.
              g    Acceleration due to gravity.
              t    Time.
              a  Phase angle (radians).
              x    Direction of wave propagation
                                2n
              Wave frequency,  o = -
                                T
                              2n
              Wave number,  k = -
                              L
         The dispersion relation expresses the relation between the wave period and wavelength and is
          given by:
              wz
              - tanh(kd)                                                     (6.3)
                 =
               gk
         6.3.2  2D Regular Long-Crested Waves
         The 2D  regular  long-crested waves  Pigure 6.2) are defined by  their wave  amplitude and
         frequency, giving the following expressions for the wave kinematics:
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