Page 189 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

Functional measurements and mobility restriction (from 3D to 4D scanning) 183

Fig. 7.9 Extract from the table of differences in measurements (back width).

7.2.5.2 Measurement example: Back width

In addition to the length of the back, the distance “waist to lower torso mark,” and the
arm reach, significant dimensional changes in back width were determined. The aver-
age difference of the “Relaxed” to “Reach 2” position in men was 10.0cm on average.
For the average difference of the “Relaxed” positions to the “Bend” position, the mea-
surement was 3.0cm smaller (see Fig. 7.9). As justification, it can be stated that the
arms extended forward in the “Reach 2” position make the “arm crease” marker posi-
tions on the left and right move away from each other. The back width is significantly
responsible for the wearing comfort and also affects the primary measurement of the
chest girth, which is responsible for the clothing size allocation. Therefore these sig-
nificant changes must be taken into account in the pattern development to prevent the
clothing causing mobility restrictions.

7.2.5.3 Individual variation of positions
The execution of individual positions can vary greatly due to the individual mobility
of the subjects. This, in part, has a strong impact on the measurement results. The
taken body measurements can only be meaningfully examined when the positions
are taken comparably. Especially the “Bend” and “Squat” positions were executed
varyingly. In Fig. 7.10, different subjects can be seen in the “Bend” position. The cur-
vature of the back and the extension of the leg differ significantly. As a result the dis-
tances between fingertips and ground have a great variability. The difference between
the subjects varied up to 50cm.
To counteract this, a solution approach was found. The “Bend” position was carried
out twice by every subject. Both variations were scanned to be able to evaluate the
result later with regard to body height (see Fig. 7.11):
Version 1: Bend forward as far as possible, according to physical condition.
l
Version 2: Bend to the reference point, at the height of the middle knee point.
l
Version 1 establishes the maximum range of movement, and version 2 makes the
value fundamentally comparable.