Page 185 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

180 Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

Fig. 7.7 Evaluation of the back width measurement.

positions is significant. This must be able to cover a clothing product to ensure ergo-
nomic wearing comfort. However, only the positive changes are relevant for the cloth-
ing construction. Thus the increase in the back width in the “Reach 2” position must be
taken into account when developing the pattern. The reduction of the back width in
“Seated 2,” on the other hand, does not matter, because in this case the clothing prod-
uct cannot cause any restriction in movement.
In a further step, these results were considered separately gender-specific
according to clothing sizes. The aim was to provide pattern makers and designers with
measurement parameters for clothing development, especially for the pattern making,
which enable the development of products that support, not limit, the human ROM.
The evaluation of the measurement differences showed a large variance of individ-
ual values. This may be due not only to the sample size but also to the fact that the
subjects were not able to reproduce the defined positions with 100% accuracy. Thus
no significant differences between the sizes could be derived. To achieve a higher sta-
tistical certainty, three size groups were formed: small men’s size, German size 44–48
(chest girth: 69–88cm) or small women’s size, German size 36–40 (bust girth:
72–80cm), medium men’s size 50–54 (chest girth: 100–108cm) or medium women’s
size 42–46 (bust girth: 84–92cm), and large men’s size 56–60 (chest girth:
112–120cm) or large women’s size 48–52 (bust girth: 96–104cm). The advantage
is that a larger number of values are found in each group.
For each of these size groups, the average value, as well as the minimum and max-
imum values, was recorded. Furthermore, minimal differences between the body
height ranges could be identified. These were also accounted for. In regard to the fig-
ure types, no differences could be determined. This could be due to the small sample
size but possibly also to the fact that figure types in general have a smaller influence on
the functional measurement. This must be specified in further research.