Page 192 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

186 Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

It should be noted that, as already mentioned, the static positions recreate move-
ments. The muscle work is static rather than dynamic work. Even for trained subjects,
it is difficult to precisely replicate the muscular work of a movement in a static posi-
tion. It can be assumed throughout that the body geometry will vary in both cases. As a
result the measurements could also be different. This is fundamental to investigate. As
3-D scanners are unable to record movement, 4-D scanners should be seen as a solu-
tion for these analyses.

7.2.6 Outlook
A further challenge, in addition to measuring the dimensions and deriving the dimen-
sional differences, is implementing them in optimized apparel products for sports,
work, and PPE. The correlation to the textile material and its respective elasticity pre-
sents a central topic (see Section 7.3.1). Fig. 7.14 shows an example of the represen-
tation of the evaluated dimensional differences (back width and arm reach) between
the “Relaxed” and “Reach 2” positions, as they are to be considered in a product.
When the arms are stretched forward, the back width increases by 26% in the
large-size range (chest girth 112–120cm) and the arm reach by 7%. This corresponds
to an increase of 11cm in the back width and 5cm in the arm reach. Due to the increase
in back width and arm reach, there is a required extra length of about 16cm that must
be available in a shirt, for example, in the movement of the user. This extra length must
be taken into account not only in the production of patterns by the construction of spe-
cial clothing elements such as movement folds or adjustment options but also when
using textile materials with defined properties of stretch and/or elasticity. The imple-
mentation of the functional measurements in pattern development is a new field of
research.

7.3 Examinations of mobility restrictions caused
by clothing

Due to a lack of information about the changes of the human body surface during
movement, necessary comforts were not always sufficiently considered in the devel-
opment of clothing. However, a lack of extra width or length hinders the wearer when
executing movement. With the analysis of functional measurement and the develop-
ment of a movement-oriented measuring system, important foundations were laid to
develop clothing with high ergonomic wearing comfort for different sizes and figure
types. Yet, as scientific studies have shown, the static recording of functional mea-
surements has set some limits (see Section 7.2.5). With the further development of
scanning systems from 3-D to 4-D, static positions can be replaced by movement
in the future. This would allow for the analysis of more realistic, if not real, circum-
stances. This opens up the possibility to investigate completely new research issues.
But before arriving at the new 4-D scanners in Section 7.4, the research work in the
field of mobility restriction should be looked at.