Page 195 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

188 Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

7.3.1 Mobility restrictions caused by clothing

Clothing restricts the movement of the wearer to different extents according to the
flexibility and elasticity of the material. In the area of fashion, good ergonomics
are not part of the target values. Here, visual appearance takes center stage. Mobility
restrictions, that is, the reduction of the ROM, are accepted by the customers (Gill,
2018). Critical movements are avoided if possible. The tight pencil skirt is not
intended for stepping over hurdles, and you cannot mount an engine overhead wearing
a sport coat. The combinations of material stiffness and pattern reduce mobility; in
these examples, either the step size or the shoulder rotation is restricted. For example,
excessive and overly dynamic movements in fashionable clothing can lead to seam
damage (Schmid and Mecheels, 1981).
Such damage remains for the most part without serious consequences for the
wearer in everyday life. The situation is very different for PPE, military equipment,
and sport or outdoor wear. Movements here are repeated multiple times and are often
highly dynamic. This stresses seams and materials maximally. If areas are stressed too
much, the protective effect or functionality can be reduced (Baytar et al., 2012). Ergo-
nomics are as just as important requirement as the protective function for these prod-
ucts. Mobility restrictions at work or during sport represent a further physical, and
therefore also mental, strain (Akbar-Khanzadeh et al., 1995). Clothing can severely
restrict the performance of the wearer, if they permanently have to act against resis-
tance. Impairments of this kind result in longer processing times (in a work environ-
ment), earlier muscle fatigue, and higher stress (Adams and Keyserling, 1993). In a
physically demanding job (e.g., in the fire department), clothing should be as support-
ive as possible (Watkins and Dunne, 2015). The goal of clothing development in this
context must, therefore, be maximum protection with minimal impairment of the
mobility of the wearer. In some cases, even clothing-technical solutions for the passive
support of the users can be realized.
Most clothing products are developed on the basis of the standard anthropometric
posture defined in standards and size charts (see Section 7.2.2). The persons to be
recorded stand upright, legs hip width apart, and arms slightly spread laterally
(Ashdown, 2011; Kouchi, 2014; Morlock, 2015a, b; ISO—International Organisation
for Standardization, 2010). People are, however, in this static position for very short
moments throughout the day, as they are predominantly in movement. They walk,
sit, bend the torso forward, or stretch the arms out upwards. Above all at work and dur-
ing sport, the body posture changes regularly and dynamically. With each movement the
body dimensions and geometry vary (see Section 7.2). The variations in body propor-
tions have a direct effect on the fabric and on the whole clothing product. The material is
stretched or deformed. This also influences the interaction between body and clothing.
An increase in material stretch usually also means an increase in clothing pressure on the
body (Lim et al., 2006). If the pressure is too great, the wearer feels the clothing is
uncomfortable and can be limited in his mobility. To counter this, clothing must accom-
modate for the changes in the body and expand or reduce analogously to it. This can be
achieved on the one hand by material characteristics or by the tailoring. Woven fabrics
are limited in their flexibility due to their binding and thus also the associated distortion
resistance. In general, knitted fabrics are more elastic and stretchable than woven fabric.