Page 242 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

234 Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

Table 9.8 Amounts of ease allowance used in women’s clothes in the 1990s to the 2000s
Mean/range (cm)
Down
Ease allowance Blouse Dress Jacket Coat jacket
Back
Ease to back 1.1 1.2 1.7 1.2 1.5
neck width 0.2–2.6 0.2–2.8 0.4–3.5 1–1.7 1–2.6
E BNW E BNW depends on configuration of neck line, collar, material thickness,
and underwear clothes and accessories
Ease to back 0.4 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.6
neck depth 0.8 to 1.5 to 0.2–0.4 0.3–0.5 0.5–0.7
E BND (or 1.6 1.9
highest point E ND may be positive and negative, equal 0. E ND depends on collar,
of back configuration of neck line, thickness of underwear clothes, and
seam) accessories
Ease to back 0.5 0.5 0.6 0.8 2.8
shoulder 1.8 to 1.6 to 0.4 to 0.1–1.5 0.1–5.5
0.8 0.6 1.6
width E BSW
E SL depends on shoulder shape: for natural shape [ 0.5 to 1.5cm]; for
dropping shoulder [2–6cm and more]; for narrow shoulder E SL is
negative
Ease to back 1.5 0.9 1.3 2 3.4
0.7–2.3 0.5 to 0.6–2 1.5–2.5 1–5.8
width E BW
2.3
E BW depends on armhole seam location
Ease to back 0 0.3 0.2 1.1 1.7
1.7 to 1.2 to 1.7 to 0.2 to 0–3.4
length E BL
1.7 1.8 2.1 2.4
E BL depends on waist level position in clothes relatively body natural
waist level and material thickness
Ease to sloping 1 0.8 1.2 1.8 1.3
back length 0.4–1.6 0.1–1.5 0.7–1.7 1.4–2.2 1.1–1.5
E BSL E BSL depends on material shoulder pad thickness. E SW and E BL
Front
Ease to front 0.9 1.2 1.3 1.2 1.3
neck width 0.2–2.5 0.2–2.7 1–2.9 1–2 0.7–1.9
E FNW E FNW may be bigger than E BNW due to the difference between the
thickness of front and back and the location of shoulder seam
Ease to front E FSL is equal to E BSL or smaller due to shrinkage in 0.5–0.7cm
shoulder
width E FSW
Ease to front 1.7 1 1.6 2.1 3.6
0.5–2.9 0.3–1.7 0.9–2.3 1.3–2.9 0.9–6.3
width E FW
E FW depends on location of armhole seam and methods of front shaping