Page 247 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

Evaluation of pattern block for fit testing 239

Fig. 9.8 Scheme of pattern block and body measuring to calculate the indicators of longitudinal
balance. BL,Wl, and HL are, respectively, bust, waist, and hip levels. BNP (11), SNP (12 or 16),
and FNP (17) are, respectively, back, shoulder, and front neck points. SP (14) is shoulder point.
BP (36) is bust point. APB (332) and APF (352) are, respectively, armpit back and front points.
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α B and α F are, respectively, the slopinigs of back (12–14 ) and front (16–14 ) shoulder lines.
∠(371-36-371’) is breast dart. β B and β F are, respectively, the angles between vertical line from
341 (341’) and back and front side lines.

block back between point 5 and point 6, cm; LF SNP is the body measurement of front
from SNP to WFC on the natural waist line (waist front center), cm; LB SNP is the body
measurement of back from BNP to WBC on the natural waist line (waist back center),
cm; M SNP is the distance between SNP and point 121, cm.
Longitudinal lower balance б ld is used to identify the lowering of the waist struc-
tural line of the pattern block relative to the natural waistline of the body (designed as
/97-97 /on Fig. 9.8B).
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Longitudinal initial balance б li is one of the most important indicators because its
amount influences other indicators: б li indicates the difference between the natural
waist level WL as a more narrow place of the body (anthropometrical level) and
the clothing waistline /41-471/ (structural level) as a more narrow place; б li is mea-
sured along the back line; б li is the same as the ease allowance to back length E BL
(Fig. 9.8B). From the pattern block б li can be found by the equation:

б li ¼ =11 41= BL ¼ E BL : (9.9)