Page 243 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

Evaluation of pattern block for fit testing 235

Table 9.8 Continued
Mean/range (cm)
Down
Ease allowance Blouse Dress Jacket Coat jacket
Ease to BP 2.5 1.6 1.6 1.1 0.7
height E BPH 0.7–4.3 0.6–2.6 0–3.2 1.3 to
3.5
E BPH may be positive or negative and depends on breast dart length
Ease to BP 2.2 1.8 2.3 3.1 5.2
width E BPW 1–3.4 0.8–2.8 0.5–4.1 1.7–4.5
E BPW always positive and depends on methods of front shaping
Front+back
Ease to armhole 3.7 2.6 3.7 4.4 7.1
depth E AHD 2.5–4.9 1.4–3.8 2.4–5 2.6–6.4 2.9–11.3
E AHD depends on sleeve shape and volume, thickness of underwear
clothes, armhole design
Ease to half bust 6.3 4.3 6.0 8.0 7.0
2.3–8.5 0–5.5 3.5–10.0 5.0–13.0 5.0–15.0
girth E 0.5BG
E 0.5BG depends on fashion
Ease to half 8.4 5.3 11.0 14.0 8.0
waist girth 9.0–15.0 5.0–12.0 4.5–15.5 8.5–20.0 6.0–13.5
E 0.5WG depends on fashion
E 0.5WG
Ease to half hip 4.0 3.0 4.0 6.0 7.0
5.0–9.5 0–9.5 3.1–4.7 2–13.0 6.0–11.0
girth E 0.5HG
E 0.5HG depends on fashion

The balance of belt clothing is the complex of solitary indicators for describing the
positions and configurations of the clothing parts (front, back), in the vertical and hor-
izontal directions and measured relative to the chosen surfaces of the human body,
such as lower bearing and touching areas. The indicators of balance exist not only
for clothes in total but also for their part combinations (bodice and sleeve), parts,
and lines (armhole, neck).
Fig. 9.6 shows the location of the bearing and touching areas of the human body,
which are responsible for the balance of clothes. The bearing area (in black, Fig. 9.6)
has the closest contact with the clothes covering, which can be obtained by correct
calculation of darts and appropriate line configurations located in this area. The touch-
ing area (dotted) gives the directions to clothes and its distribution between the front
and the back depends on body morphology.
The indicators of balance are calculated between anthropometrical points and they
include:
(1) bearing balance, showing the adequacy of the bearing surface of the body and covering
parts of the front and back. Bearing balance includes the amounts of two darts, the breast
in front and the blade in back;