Page 246 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

238 Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

where б bb is the back bearing indicator, degree; β рattern and β body are the values of
blade darts in the pattern block and calculated from the body, respectively, degrees;
К 1 is the coefficient showing the flattering effect of the back under the influence of the
shoulder pad, degree/cm, К 1 ¼ 1.7t sp. where t sp is the shoulder pad thickness, cm; К 2 is
the coefficient showing the flattering effect of the back by means of ease allowance to
the back width E 0.5BW , degree/cm, К 2 ¼0.9E 0.5BW ; К 3 is the coefficient showing the
flattering effect of the back by means of ease allowance to shoulder length E SL ,
degrees/cm, К ус3 ¼0.1–0.3E SL.
The equation to calculate the front bearing indicator of balance is
б bf ¼ β рattern 0:5BG 0:5BG 1 аÞ К 4 : (9.7)
ð

where б bf is the front bearing indicator, degrees; BG and BG 1 are the bust girth mea-
sured across BP and upper breast, respectively, cm; a is the coefficient depending on
gender: for women a¼[0.65 0.05], for men a¼[0.5 0.05]; К 4 is the coefficient
showing the flattering effect of the front which depends on the method of pattern block
making and shaping, К 4 ¼[ 1.0–0.1] cm. A negative amount for К 4 is used for the
pattern block when the ease allowance to front width E FW is increased. If the front
shape is moving for the shape of the real breast, К 4 is increasing.
The differences between (б bb β рattern ) and (б bf β рattern ) can explain the modifi-
cations that were made during shaping of the basic block.

9.5.2 Indicators of longitudinal balance
To calculate the longitudinal indicators, it is necessary to collect the body measure-
ments and to measure some dimensions of the pattern block. The principal scheme
of the measuring of the body and the pattern block is shown in Fig. 9.8. Fig. 9.8A
shows the profile of the female torso, the scheme of body measurements (dotted lines),
and the pattern block (solid line) coordinated under the waistline. Fig. 9.8B shows the
pattern block with numeric symbols: the symbols with first number 1 are related to the
shoulder area, with first number 3 to the bust area, with first number 4 to the waist area,
with first number 9 to the bottom, under the instruction of the Universal Method of
pattern block making (formerly the USSR—Poland—Germany—Hungary—
Czech—Slovak—Romania—Bulgaria, 1982).
Longitudinal linear balance has three indicators—upper, lower, and initial—which
are connected to the points of neck, shoulder, and waistline of the pattern block with
the anthropometrical waist level.
Longitudinal upper balance б lu is used to identify the distance between the highest
points of the neckline and waist level of the front and the back. The equation for cal-
culation of this balance is:

б lu ¼ =16 461= =121 42=ð Þ LF SNP LB SNP Þ ¼ 2М SNP : (9.8)
ð
where б lu is the longitudinal upper balance, cm; /13-15/ is the length of the pattern
block front between point 16 and point 461, cm; /121-42/ is the length of the pattern