Page 251 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

Evaluation of pattern block for fit testing 243

(2) if the waist girth is bigger than the hip girth, б t will provide the concordance between the
structural levels of waist and bust.
By means of this balance, the vertical direction of back seam, front edges, etc., can be
achieved. To get the vertical directions, it is necessary to find agreement between the
minimal ease allowances on both compared levels. Fig. 9.10 shows the defect when
the side seam is not vertical and moves forward in parallel with the structural waist
level, and the bottom (solid lines) slopes from initial and desirable horizontal direc-
tions (dotted lines). These defects look like the defects of wrongly calculated indica-
tors of longitudinal balance, but the cause is different.
The more obvious way to improve the misfit (Aldrich, 2008) is to compare the
corresponding width of pattern block and body width calculations after dividing
the girth between the front, the side (located under armpit or armhole), and the back,
and to establish the proportionality between them. The proportionality, or transverse
(latitudinal) balance, reveals the allocations of different parts of clothing on a body.
From the latitudinal aspect, clothes and body are usually distributed into front, side,
and back sections. If the ratio between certain sections of clothes and body are too big
or too small, the vertical direction of the side seam will be changed and stress folds and
creases will appear, caused by the shearing force due to the unbalanced
proportionality.

(A) (B)

Fig. 9.10 Examples of destroying of transverse (latitudinal) balance б t . BS, WS, HS are the
points of side seam on bust, waist, and hip levels. BFC, WFC, HFC are the front points of the
sagittal plane on bust, waist, and hip levels. BBC, WBC, HBC are the back points of sagittal
plane on bust, waist, and hip levels. BL, WL, and HL are, respectively, bust, waist, and hip levels.
BNP, SNP, and FNP are, respectively, back, shoulder, and front neck points. SP is shoulder
point. BP is bust point. APB and APF are, respectively, armpit back and front points.