Page 254 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

246 Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

Fig. 9.12 The scheme of pattern block measuring to calculate transverse (latitudinal) balance.
BGF, BGB are, respectively, the segments of the bust girth dividing between the front and the
back. WGF, WGB are, respectively, the segments of the waist girth dividing between the front
and the back. HGF, HGB are, respectively, the segments of the hip girth dividing between the
front and the back.

(b) Δ bf Δ hf >Δ bb Δ hb . Fig. 9.13B shows that the upper part of the side seam is moved to the
back because the back width of the pattern block is smaller than the body measurements;
(c) Δ bf Δ hf <Δ bb Δ hb . Fig. 9.13C shows an increased number of folds and creases due to
shearing deformation in textile materials under wrong proportions at the hip level.
So the shirts with the mentioned defects were not adapted to the morphological fea-
tures of the male body used as avatar for a virtual try-on.

9.5.4 Angle balance
The balance between two side lines belonging to the front and back means that the
angles of its sloping should be equal. Fig. 9.8 shows both balanced side lines when
the angles are equal:

β ¼ β : (9.25)
F
B
where β F is the angle between the front side line and the vertical line, degrees; β B is the
angle between the back side line and the vertical line, degrees.