Page 256 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

248 Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

BGB BGF BGB BGF

(A) (B) HGB HGF

(C)

(D) (E) (F)

Fig. 9.13 Examples of men’s shirt with misfit due to wrongly designed indicators of transverse
(latitudinal) balance. (A, D) Balanced pattern block and well-fitted shirt, (B, E) nonbalanced
pattern block (dotted line) and badly fitted shirt when BGB and BGF do not reflect the body
morphology at bust level, (C, F) nonbalanced pattern block (dotted line) and badly fitted shirt
when HGB and HGF do not reflect the body morphology at hip level. Improved pattern blocks
after correction (B, C) shown by solid line.

(1) for women’s dresses α F ¼15–30 (mean is 17). α B ¼12–25 (mean is 16); the average differ-
ence is 1;
(2) for women’s jacket α F ¼5–33 (mean is 18.7). α B ¼0–25 (mean is 17.7); the average differ-
ence is 1;
(3) for women’s coat α F ¼8–35 (mean is 19.1). α B ¼7–33 (mean is 17.3); the average differ-
ence is 1.8;
(4) for men’s coat α F ¼4–32 (mean is 21.3). α B ¼10–30 (mean is 19.7); the average difference
is 1.7;
(5) for men’s suit α F ¼10–27 (mean is 18.5). α B ¼12–30 (mean is 20.5); the average difference
is 2.