Page 255 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

Evaluation of pattern block for fit testing 247

Table 9.10 Indicators of transverse (latitudinal) balance
Results of
measuring
(Fig. 9.13) Indicator of
transverse Indicators of balance in
Place of Pattern (latitudinal) transverse (latitudinal)
measurements Body block balance б t direction
Bust level /BFC- BGF Δ bf ¼/BFC-BS/ Δ bf Δ hf ¼Δ bb Δ hb ¼Δ ss ,
BS/ BGF. where is the distance
/BS- BGB Δ bb ¼/BS-BBC/ between side seam and
BBC/ BGB vertical line which is
Waist level /WFC- WGF Δ wf ¼/WFC- dividing two girths (bust
WS/ WS/ WGF. and hip) between the front
/WS- WGB Δ wb ¼/WS- and the back (Fig. 9.13B
WBC/ WBC/ WGB and C shows the initial
Hip level /HFC- HGF Δ hf ¼/HFC-HS/ (before correction of
HS/ HGF. pattern block) and final
/HS- HFB Δ hb ¼/HS- (after correction of pattern
HBC/ HBC/ HFB block) BGB and BGF,
HGB and HGF)

The angle β depends on the silhouette and clothes style (X, A, H, O). If the propor-
tion β F 6¼β B exists, it will cause creases appearing along the side seam and side seam
sloping.
The balance between the two shoulder lines belonging to front and back means that
the difference between the two angles should reflect the shoulder morphology and
clothes construction. Fig. 9.18A shows the scheme of both angle measurements.
For typical bodies, the difference is

α F -α B ¼ 5 +5: (9.26)

where α F is the angle between the front shoulder line and a horizontal line drawn from
the highest point of the front neck line, degrees; α B is the angle between the back
shoulder line and a horizontal line drawn from the highest point of the back neck line,
degrees.
If the difference is bigger or smaller than 5 to 5cm, the indicators of longitudinal
balance б lfb and б ls will be destroyed. For atypical bodies, the difference depends on
body features such as posture (straight, normal, sloping), shoulder sloping, distribu-
tion of fat and muscles, and clothes construction (thickness of shoulder pad, position
of shoulder seam along SNP-SP line). For balanced pattern blocks in the second part of
the 20th century to the beginning of the 21st century (Kuzmichev et al., 2018) the
angles were (degrees):