Page 250 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

242 Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

(A) (B) (C)

(D) (E) (F)

Fig. 9.9 Examples of men’s shirt misfit due to wrongly designed indicators of longitudinal
balance. BNP, SNP, and FNP are, respectively, back, shoulder, and front neck points. SP is
shoulder point. (A, D) Balanced pattern block and well-fitted shirt, (B, E) nonbalanced pattern
block (dotted line) and badly fitted shirt when the back is too long, (C, F) nonbalanced pattern
block (dotted line) and badly fitted shirt when the back is too short. Improved pattern blocks
after correction (B, C) shown by solid line.

(b) б li > б lfb ¼ б ls ; Δ 1 6¼Δ 2 . Fig. 9.9B and E shows three defects of fit: the stress folds and
creases located on the front and the back and starting from BP; the bottom is deformed
and looks bad; the side seam is sloping to the front. This pattern block is not balanced
and the shirt is very badly fitted;
(c) б li < б lfb ¼ б ls . Δ 1 6¼Δ 2 . Fig. 9.9C and F shows only one defect of fit—the stress folds and
creases located near the front armhole—because the front is bigger than the back. This pat-
tern block isn’t balanced and the shirt is badly fitted.
If the 1st and 2nd balance concordances are larger than 0.5cm, the clothes will have fit
problems.

9.5.3 Transverse (latitudinal) balance
Transverse (latitudinal) balance б t provides the concordance between the width of the
pattern block and the width of the body:

(1) if the waist girth is smaller than the hip girth, б t will provide the concordance between the
structural levels of hip and bust;