Page 245 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

Evaluation of pattern block for fit testing 237

Fig. 9.7 Scheme of shaping to adapt the clothing back to the bearing surface of the body back.

The algorithms for calculation of balance indicators are shown in the following sec-
tion. These algorithms can be used in two ways: during pattern block making and dur-
ing its checking before clothing manufacturing.

9.5.1 Indicators of bearing balance

To calculate the indicators of bearing balance, it is necessary to compare designed
parameters that should be measured in the pattern block with the real parameters
of the body or mannequin. The designed parameters include the dart values; the real
parameters of the body can be found after flattening the shell into the surface. Fig. 9.7
shows the scheme of the back shaping to get the adequacy with the human body shape.
There are three values that shape the back together with the shoulder area: n 1 is the dart
from neck line, n 2 and n 3 are the shrinkage along the shoulder and armhole lines,
respectively.
The equation to calculate the back bearing indicator of balance is
б bb ¼ β β (9.6)

рattern body + К 1 + К 2 + К 3
Table 9.9 Classification of bodice balances
Indicators of balances
Balance

Bearing (on Longitudinal (along system “body-garment”) Transverse
shoulder Linear (latitudinal)
area) Arc
Indicator
Back Front Upper Down Initial Front- Side Down
back
б bb б bf б lu б ld б li б lfb б ls б t