Page 252 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

244 Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

Fig. 9.11 shows the real situations that take place during the girth measuring.
Fig. 9.11A shows three torsos of female bodies overlapped with the similar bust girth
BG, waist girth WG, and hip girth HG but which have different projections on front
and profile views and positions of girth levels. Fig. 9.11B shows overlapped three
torsos of male bodies with the same amounts of bust girth. waist girth, and hip girth.
As Fig. 9.11 shows, the proportions between the front and the back parts can be
changed widely. To find the correct proportionality between the front and back, the
following steps should be carried out to calculate б t :
(1) to draw the vertical line from the chosen point of the armpit as the position of the designed
side seam. Fig. 9.11B shows the possible beginnings of the side seam at the deepest point
APD of the armpit. The side seam connects three points BS, WS, HS. To describe the posi-
tion of the side seam around APD, the amount Δ ss is used;
(2) to measure the bust, waist, and hip girth and to divide both measurements into two widths.
The width of the front part of the bust girth should be measured from BFC to BS; the width
of the front waist part is from WFC to WS, and the width of the front part of the hip is from
HFC to HS. The same scheme should be applied to find the back width on three
anthropometrical levels;
(3) to measure the corresponding width of the pattern block, as Fig. 9.12 shows.

The common approach to transverse (latitudinal) balance б t is the site on the pattern
block will be sufficient to cover the corresponding body site if its size is equal to or less
than the body site by permissible lack of width Δ:
P i -HG i Δ: (9.22)

where P i is the width of the pattern block site across the hipline, cm; HG i is the body
measurement across hip level, cm; Δ is the permissible lack of the clothes width across
the hip, cm.
For example, for the typical female body the proposed criteria to calculate the front
and the back width along the hip girth are:

HGF ¼ 0:235…0:245HG: (9.23)

HGB ¼ 0:255…0:265HG: (9.24)

where HG is the hip girth, cm; HGF and HGB are the segments of the hip girth divid-
ing between the front and the back width, respectively, cm.
Eqs. (9.23), (9.24) can be applied as the criteria of the proportionality and the bal-
ance б t for pattern block making and checking only for standard typical bodies.
Table 9.10 shows the results of both object measurements and how they can be used
to calculate transverse (latitudinal) balance б t .
Fig. 9.13 illustrates the influence of transverse (latitudinal) indicators of balance on
the view of a virtual system “male torso—shirt.”