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170    Cha pte r  Ni ne

               relative environmental impact of alternative approaches. There are
               many variations on this basic technique, including scorecards, rat-
               ing schemes, and “traffic light” signal charts. For example, Table 9.2
               shows one component of a comprehensive scoring system used by
               Norm Thompson Outfitters to rate footwear and clothing designs
               [2]. Scoring matrices have many of the same advantages as check-
               lists, and they can provide an easy means for evaluating trade-offs
               and representing more subtle interactions among design criteria.





                Score  Examples of Materials   Criteria
                       Sustainably harvested/  • Materials without hazards
                       collected forest products,   across life cycle
                       sustainable/organic    • Natural materials produced in
                       agricultural products,   sustainable manner
                       (e.g., sustainably sourced
                                              • Biodegradable and/or easily
                  3    vegetable-tanned leather   recyclable
                       or latex), pied au naturale,
                                              • Recycled content for either
                       cork
                                                natural materials or
                                                synthetics
                                              • No toxics in raw material
                                                processing
                       Recycled cotton, recycled   • Materials with minor
                       metal, recycled plastic,   hazards in life cycle, but
                       hemp (natural retting)   no carcinogens
                       recycled polyester     • Moderate recycled content
                                              • Biodegradable and/or
                  2                             potentially recyclable
                                              • Sustainably sourced
                                                materials
                                              • Toxics, if used, produced
                                                on-site and consumed or
                                                detoxified on-site; final
                                                product not toxic
                       Hemp (chemical retting),   • Materials with some
                       linen, common oak        hazards in life cycle, but
                                                no carcinogens
                  1                           • Recycled content
                                              • Downcyclable
                                              • Some ecosystem impacts
               TABLE 9.2  Sustainability Scorecard for Material Selection: Soft Goods in
               Footwear Design
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