Page 220 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

Final work operations of the 13

cutting process for textiles

13.1 Introduction

Final operations complete the cutting process and prepare the cut components for
their further joining. The operations are as follows: the quality control of the cut com-
ponents; the recutting of faulty components; and the marking, sorting, and bundling
of the cut components. The quality control, marking, and bundling of the components
are done by one worker. The same worker is usually tasked with the recutting of
faulty components. If the workload is bigger, one more worker might be assigned
to help.

13.2 The causes of quality problems in cut components

There are several reasons for faults arising in components during the spreading, cut-
ting, and fusing processes:
The use of low-quality textile materials: poor-quality textile materials are often delivered
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to production units. Garment producers frequently seek to reduce their costs by purchasing
cheaper fabrics that may have quality problems.
The lack of adequate fabric quality control operations: in the attempt to save production
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time, a separate quality control operation of delivered fabrics is often not performed.
Perfunctory quality control of the fabric during the spreading process: usually the quality
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of the fabric is controlled only during the spreading process. As spreading operators have
several other responsibilities (to lay the fabric, cut fabric plies, count plies, and others; see
Chapter 4), some faults may go unnoticed.
Problems in the manual cutting process: the displacement of fabric plies may result in the cut
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components being of imprecise size and having poor-quality notches or drill marks.
Problems in the fusing process: these may include fabric shrinkage, bubbling of a face fabric
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(wrong fusing parameters; see Section 12.4), incorrect sizing of the pattern pieces (too small
allowance for shrinkage are added; see Sections 3.7.1 and 12.2.3), and poor-quality fabric
(inadmissibly high fabric shrinkage; see Section 2.6.3).
A poor-quality garment may result from the joining of faulty components. This will
need to be resewn later, sold as a second quality, or even destroyed. It is therefore im-
portant to separate faulty components after the cutting process. This eliminates waste
of time and labour in correcting faulty semifinished articles during the production
processes.

Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-08-102122-4.00013-5
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