Page 221 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

208 Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

13.2.1 Quality problems arising during the sewing process

Quality problems in cut components are sometimes only discovered before or during
the sewing process. If faulty components are found immediately before being pro-
cessed in a sewing line, they must be returned to the cutting section and quickly recut
so as not to impede the sewing process.
A more serious problem arises if the faulty components are found during the sew-
ing process when they have already been joined with other parts of a garment. The
reasons for these quality problems may be as previously described or may be caused
during the sewing process:
Defects caused by incorrect technological treatment of components (e.g. the processing of a
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set-in pocket, others);
Defects caused by the pressing operation (colour changes, damage to fabric structure, sheen,
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and irremovable creases);
Defects caused during the transportation and processing of semifinished articles (spots of
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machine oil, holes, others).
If a faulty component has to be replaced during the sewing process, it must first be
unstitched from the semifinished article. This article is then put aside to await the recut
component. The replacement of faulty components must be performed as quickly as
possible if the work process of the sewing line is not to be impeded.

13.3 The quality control of cut components

A quality control operation is performed after the components are cut and fused (see
Fig. 13.1). The replacement of faulty components is more convenient at this stage as
it does not affect the previously finished cutting process or the forthcoming sewing

Fig. 13.1 Cut components before final work operations.