Page 223 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

210 Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

Table 13.1 The permissible size tolerances for different
components
Components The edges of components Permissible tolerance (mm)
Face fabric
Back and front Side edges ±2
Hemline ±3
Other edges ±1
Sleeve Sleeve head ±1
Elbow and front line edges ±2
Upper collar All edges ±1
Facing Hemline ±3
Other edges ±2
Pockets Patch pocket edges ±2
Lining
Back and front Hemline ±3
Other edges ±2
Sleeve Hemline ±3
Other edges ±2
Interlining
All components All edges ±2

The admissible tolerances for different components are shown in Table 13.1. If the
nonconformity in size exceeds admissible limits, the faulty component is taken out of
the bundle and recut.

13.3.3 The control of notches and drill marks

The quality of notches and drill marks is inspected visually. Their placement is com-
pared with the corresponding marks in the pattern pieces. The quality problems of
notches and drill marks may be as follows:

Failure to cut or drill: during the manual cutting process, some notches and drill marks are
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omitted, or the spread may not have been perpendicular to the cutting device, and conse-
quently, the notches in the bottom or top plies are not cut.
The notches are too short: they are not easily seen, and if the edge of the fabric frays, they
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may disappear entirely.
The notches are too deep: if their depth exceeds the seam allowance, a hole in the fabric will
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appear next to the seam after the components have been joined.
The notches or drill marks are placed imprecisely: therefore, in the sewing process that fol-
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lows, the components will not be accurately joined.
The correct positioning and depth of notches are described in Chapter 7, Section 7.3.1.
If inaccurately placed notches or drill marks (see Section 7.3.2) are found during in-
spection, the components are taken out of the bundles and sent to be recut.