Page 224 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

Final work operations of the cutting process for textiles 211

13.4 The recutting of faulty components

The components are recut from the fabric that remains from the spreading process.
The lower the quality of the fabric, the more must be left for the recutting of faulty
components. The recutting of components is carried out by an experienced cutting
room worker. A piece of fabric with the correct colour shade has to be found, and the
component is recut using its original pattern piece. All notches and drill marks are also
performed, and if necessary, the interlining is cut, and the component is fused. The
new component is marked and replaced in the bundle at the same place (the original
sequence of the components in the bundle must not be altered). If the faulty component
was taken out of a sewing line, it is returned, so the processing of the faulty article can
be continued.
The recutting of faulty components may be done during or after the various pro-
duction work steps: after the fusing process, after the quality control of cut compo-
nents, during the sewing process, and after the final quality control of the prepared
garments.

13.5 The numbering of cut components

During the numbering process, every component is given a sequential number. This
corresponds to the number of the fabric ply from which the component was cut. In
the subsequent sewing process, the components with the same sequence number will
be joined to make one article. This numbering helps to eliminate any confusion of the
components and prevent the joining of components with different colour shades. To
save time, only the bottom or top component of a bundle may be marked. However,
if fabric rolls with different colour shades are laid in one spread, all the cut compo-
nents must be numbered. The numbering is done manually, using a special hand-held
numbering device (a sticker gun) with small labels. The numbering system can be set
so that the number is different for every component in the bundle or may remain the
same throughout the marking process, marking only the top or bottom component of a
bundle. If a barcode system is used to monitor the production process, the barcodes are
fixed on the bundle tags. The numbering is done during the quality control operation.
A worker inspects all components in a bundle, visually assesses their quality, and fixes
the numbering labels on their surfaces.

13.6 The sorting and bundling of cut components

The sorting and bundling of cut components is the final work operation carried out in
the cutting room, during which the following actions are taken: a full set of compo-
nents of each cut style is formed, and the cut articles are grouped by size and also by
colour if several different coloured fabrics were laid for one order.