Page 228 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

Marker making for garment 14

styles from intricate pattern

textiles

14.1 Introduction

Both manual and automated marker-making methods use the same pattern-matching
principles. They depend on fabric pattern qualities: placement way on the fabric, sym-
metry, size, and complicity. In case of manual processing, markers are made on a
fabric during its spreading. Using automated nesting software, markers are created on
an image of the fabric pattern placed on PC screen.
If the design of the style demands a coordinated pattern, the position of the patterns
needs to be precise for all components. Pattern pieces cannot simply fill the free areas
of the fabric to maximize fabric utilization as is done when making markers for plain
fabrics. They must be positioned according to the fabric pattern and the required ap-
pearance of the garment. As a result, large areas of material cannot be used, and fabric
consumption increases. The more complex is the fabric pattern, the more time and
labour consumption is required in the marker-making process. Furthermore, the larger
the repeat of a pattern, the lower is the fabric utilization.

14.2 Marker making for styles made from fabrics
with stripes

Striped materials with small repeats (less than 5 mm) may be processed using tradi-
tional methods (see Chapter 4) without matching the patterns. If the repeat is larger
and the design of the style requires coordination of the pattern, that is, the position of
the stripes needs to be consistent within and between garments, the striped materials
are spread and cut so as to match their patterns.
The basic principles of the marker-making process are dependent on the kind of
pattern:
The direction of stripes: in the lengthwise direction of the material (in the warp direction of
●
woven fabric and in the direction of the wales in knitted fabric, see Fig. 14.1A–C) or in the
cross direction of the material (in the weft direction of a woven fabric and in the direction of
the wales in knitted fabric, see Fig. 14.1D–F).
The arrangement of stripes: symmetrical (see Fig. 14.1A, B, D, and E) or asymmetrical in
●
different size and colour (see Fig. 14.1C and F).
Markers are formed directly onto the fabric (manually) or its pattern image (auto-
mated way), coordinating the placement of stripes in components. Pattern pieces can
Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-08-102122-4.00014-7
Copyright © 2018 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.