Page 233 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

220 Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

14.2.2 The initial marker

To simplify the spreading of sectioned markers, the pattern pieces that need to be
grouped in sections are produced from an initial marker (see Fig. 14.8). The initial
marker is formed taking into consideration the following:
All the pattern pieces to be placed in one section are put into a rectangular area (see
●
Fig. 14.8).
All single-size pattern pieces are aligned in one direction only, in accordance with the design
●
of a style.
Symmetrical front components are placed with their front edges together (see Fig. 14.8; light
●
grey components).
Side-front components are positioned next to their corresponding front components, on the
●
same level, to save time in matching the patterns during the subsequent nesting process (see
Fig. 14.8).
Horizontal lines are marked on the main pattern pieces to match the checks if the fabric has
●
check patter; see Section 14.3.1 (see Fig. 14.8; lines on the light grey components).
Before laying the marker on the ready fabric spread, the initial marker is divided
into smaller blocks. For example, in Fig. 14.8, the following blocks of components
would be separated:
A block containing those front components in which the pattern pieces have previously
●
been placed together to obtain symmetrical pattern on them (see Fig. 14.8; light grey
components).
The block of facings and pocket flaps, in which the small pattern pieces have previously
●
been fixed in position by placing them in the correct oblique direction when compared
with the large pattern pieces placed in the direction of the warp (see Fig. 14.9; dark grey
components).
The pattern pieces and the blocks are then placed onto the fabric spread for visual
assessment and to ensure the continuity of the patterns in all the garment parts whilst
still leaving a sufficient fabric allowance around those pattern pieces that require pre-
cise coordination of their position.

– Block of facings and pocket flaps
– Block of side-front components and front components
Fig. 14.8 Initial marker for one section of pattern pieces.