Page 238 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

Marker making for garment styles from intricate pattern textiles 225

14.3 Marker making for styles made from fabrics
with checks

The marker-making process depends on the pattern. Checked materials with a small
repeats (checks up to 5 × 5 mm) and very large repeats of asymmetrical checks may
be spread using a traditional spreading methods (see Chapter 4) not matching their
patterns. However, if the design of the style demands a coordinated pattern, that is, the
position of the checks needs to be consistent within and between garments, markers
are created matching the patterns.
In making markers for styles with coordinated patterns, the pattern pieces are
grouped in sections and positioned directly onto the fabric (in manual marker making)
or onto fabric pattern image (in automated marker making) to ensure that the place-
ment of the patterns coordinates with the checks. Components with similar lengths
(see Fig. 14.17) or single-size bodice pieces (see Fig. 14.18) are united in one section.
Usually, pattern pieces of one or two sizes are united in 2–3 sections (bodice and
sleeve sections). The length of a section is determined by the longest pattern piece
included in it.
If the grouping of pattern pieces in sections significantly increases fabric consump-
tion and the economics of production, conventional markers are produced. In this case,
although the position of some pattern pieces need to be constrained to ensure the nec-
essary check matching within a style, other pattern pieces may be positioned around
them to maximize fabric utilization. Usually, these are produced when pattern pieces

Length of
40–1 40–2 section
38–1 38–2

Fig. 14.17 Similar length pattern pieces united in one section.

Bodice section
3 1 2 4

Fig. 14.18 Body components united in one section.