Page 234 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

Marker making for garment styles from intricate pattern textiles 221

Third section Second section First section

38–3
38–1 40–3
40–2

38–2 40–1
38–4 40–4

Fig. 14.9 Marker consisting of three sections and pattern pieces of two sizes.

14.2.3 Fabrics with cross directional stripes
Markers for textile materials with cross directional stripes are usually produced
in separate sections. The pattern pieces are produced from an initial marker (see
Section 14.2.2). Markers are made for the body and sleeve sections combining in them
pattern pieces of one or two sizes (see Fig. 14.9; sections for two sizes). The length of
a section is determined by the longest pattern piece. Usually, two or three sections are
laid together and combined in one marker (see Fig. 14.9; a marker with three sections).
In symmetrically striped fabric, pattern pieces of two sizes may be placed in differ-
ent directions (see Fig. 14.9; sizes 38 and 40). In fabric with asymmetrical stripes, this
is only possible if the design of a style does not require a specific direction of the pat-
tern in the garment. The edges of large pattern pieces whose directions are close to the
direction of stripes (e.g. straight or slightly curved hemlines of body and sleeve pattern
pieces) are placed on a stripe or between stripes. No fabric allowance is left for these
straight edges, but is added to the opposing edges – shoulder and neck lines and arm-
hole lines (see Fig. 14.9). When the pattern pieces are placed on the fabric, the stripes
must be coordinated where the components are joined. The stripes must match, both in
colour and in their placement (see Fig. 14.10). The design of a style often requires also
the coordination of stripes on the front and sleeve components as shown in Fig. 14.11.
The end of the last section should ideally finish at the same position in the fabric pat-
tern where the first section starts (see Fig. 14.12). If the fabric pattern at the end of the last
section does not coincide with the starting position of the fabric pattern in the first section,
the length of the marker must be extended to ensure the same start point for the next ply of
fabric (see Fig. 14.12). This spare fabric will be cut off during the cutting process.
Pattern pieces may also be placed in a cross direction if the design of a style de-
mands the vertical placement of stripes on a garment (see Fig. 14.13).