Page 232 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

Marker making for garment styles from intricate pattern textiles 219

Front Front
side

Pocket

Fig. 14.6 Matching of stripes of the front and the patch pocket.

Another fabric allowance is needed for components that are fused with interlining
to compensate for shrinkage after the fusing process. These components have two
fabric allowances:
A fabric allowance for the coordination of the pattern during the second spreading;
●
A fabric allowance for the coordination of the pattern and compensation for shrinkage after
●
the fusing process (see Section 3.7.1).
The fabric allowance for the fusing process usually is 15 mm (see Fig. 14.7).
Fusible components are placed in blocks. These are areas of fabric where two or
more fusible components are put together. Later in the process, a whole section of this
fabric will be fused, after which separate components are cut out (see Section 3.7.2).
These blocks are placed close to the selvedge of the fabric or on other free areas. The
width of the block is determined by the width of the working surface of the fusing
press. The maximum length of a block is 150 cm (for long components, such as the
fronts and facings of a coat).

15 mm

Fig. 14.7 Pattern piece of a patch pocket with the fabric allowance to match pattern and
compensate the shrinking of material after fusing process.