Page 239 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

226 Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

of a single garment, with very different shapes and sizes, have to be laid in a marker.
Conventional (overall) markers are also created automated way using specialized
marker-making software for checked fabrics.

14.3.1 An initial maker
To simplify the making of sectioned markers, those pattern pieces that need to be
grouped in sections when laid directly onto the fabric are produced from an initial
marker printed on paper (see Section 14.2.2).

14.3.2 The coordination of pattern
The information about the placement of patterns on fabrics is obtained from the style
sample and its technical documentation. The largest, most important pattern pieces
are placed in the marker first. Their centre lines have to be placed on the centre stripe
of the checks (see Fig. 14.19A) or on the centre of their centre space as shown in
Fig. 14.19B.
All body pattern pieces are placed in a marker aligning the pattern in a horizontal
direction and, in some cases, both a horizontal and vertical directions. Figs 14.20 and
14.21 show examples of components aligned in a horizontal direction. Those patterns

(A) (B)
Fig. 14.19 Placement of the centre line of a back on the centre stripe (A) or on the centre of
the centre space (B).

(A) (B) (C)
Fig. 14.20 Coordination of pattern: a front with a front side (A), a front with a facing (B), and
a front with a back (C).