Page 241 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials
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228                                         Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials









                    Front
                            Front
                             side






                       Pocket





                  Matching points
                (A)                     (B)
         Fig. 14.23  Matching of pattern of the front and the patch pocket: pattern-matching principle
         (A) and (B) coordinated pattern of a patch pocket with the front of a jacket.

           Often, the design of a style requires also the coordination of stripes on front and
         sleeve components as shown in Fig. 14.24.


         14.3.3   Fabric allowance to coordinate patterns
         Performing manual cutting process, the perfect coordination of the patterns between
         fabric plies cannot be guaranteed as, during the cutting process, mutual displacement
         of plies can happen. Therefore, some allowance must be added around pattern pieces
         to ensure the accurate alignment of the checks during a subsequent second spreading
         operation (see Section 15.2.2).
           Fabric allowances have to be left on both sides of the pattern pieces for large sym-
         metrical details (see Fig. 14.25; component 1) and those front components placed
         with their front edges together (see Fig. 14.25; components 4 and 5). For other pattern
         pieces, the fabric allowance is added only on one side (see Fig. 14.25; components 2,
         3, and 6). The fabric allowance is not made on that side of the component that is placed
         next to the selvedge of fabric. Instead, the hemlines of components are placed close to
         it, and the allowance is added to the opposite side of the components (see Fig. 14.25;
         components 1–7).
           If the style demands the coordination of the patterns for front and sleeve compo-
         nents, additional fabric allowance, one repeat wide, is given to the pattern piece of the
         sleeve (see Fig. 14.26).
           A fabric allowance, one repeat wide, in both the vertical and horizontal directions
         has to be added to the pattern pieces of small components (patch pockets, welts, and
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