Page 222 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

Final work operations of the cutting process for textiles 209

Fig. 13.2 Quality control of cut components.

process. All the cut components are inspected, and the following quality parameters
are controlled: fabric quality, the conformity of the size and shape of cut components
to their pattern pieces, and the quality of notches and drill marks.

13.3.1 The control of fabric quality
Fabric quality is inspected visually (see Fig. 13.2). If textile faults or faults arising
from the cutting or fusing processes are found, the component is taken out of the bun-
dle and sent to be recut.

13.3.2 The control of size and shape
After the manual cutting process, the size of cut components is controlled by comparing
the components with their pattern pieces. Three components from a bundle – lower,
middle, and topmost – are placed on the pattern piece when inspecting face fabrics. Two
components from a bundle – the bottom ply and the top ply – are used for inspecting
linings. Large-size components are inspected first, followed by the smaller components.
When problems in the manual cutting process (the displacement of fabric plies and the
disadvantages of specific cutting devices) are taken into account, the dimensions of the
cut components may have certain admissible tolerances. These depend on the following:
The importance of the dimensions in the garment: smaller tolerances are admissible in the
●
horizontal dimensions of components as these influence the size and comfort of the garment.
Larger tolerances are admissible in the vertical dimensions that influence the length of the
garment.
In all dimensions of a component, the smaller its size, the smaller are the admissible
●
tolerances.
The application of the component: smaller tolerances are admissible in face fabric compo-
●
nents and larger tolerances in interlining components.