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Industrial waters  13 7


           Table 3.22  Pollution load from desizing of 50:50 polyesterkotton (PRG, 1983)
           U e s iz i n g
                                                      ~     ~    ~     ~
           Enzyme starch          6-8      3078      6155      1583      288
           Polyvinyl alcohol      6-8      200       400       4029      192
           Carboxymethyl          6-8      3 14      400       4349      751
           cellulose



           resulting  from  the alkali and from impurities  in the raw cotton material,  is
           generally high (Table 3.22). Along with desizing, cotton scouring generates very
           high  BOD  concentrations. These two processes thus make by  far the greatest
           contribution to effluent BOD in the wet phase processing of cotton goods (Nolan,
           1972; Smith, 1989). When synthetic sizes are used desizing and scouring are
           usually  carried out in a  single operation.  Since synthetic fibres are free from
           chemical impurities,  100% synthetic fabrics (woven or knitted)  require  only
           light  scouring  in  order  to  remove  sizes  and  lubricants.  The  process  is  not
           normally a significant source of  organic or suspended solids pollution. In cases
           where desizing, scouring and dyeing are performed simultaneously, effluent with
           an increased pollution load results (Table 3.21).
             Raw  wool  scouring  is  the  highest-polluting  operation  within  the  textile
           industry  (Table  3.20).  The  large  volumes  of  effluent  and  high  levels  of
           contaminants generated by this operation have made it an area of  the industry
           of  key  concern, and much  work  has been  carried  out in  this  area  towards
           abatement of  pollution  from  this process  (BTTG, 1992; Nolan,  1972; OECD,
           1981). The pollution load results from impurities present in the raw wool, (wax,
           urine,  faeces,  vegetable  and  mineral  dirt,  and  parasite-control  chemicals)
           together with soap, detergent and alkali used during the scouring and washing
           processes.  The use of  some of  the more onerous organochlorine  chemicals in
           sheep dipping has been restricted by legislation in recent years, but there remain
           chemicals such as organophosphates that are still used and so arise in raw wool
           scouring  effluents  (Shaw,  1994a,b). Due  to  their  non-biodegradability  or
           toxicity, many impurities in scouring effluents (Table 3.23), such as antistatic
           agents (synthetic fibres), pesticides, cotton waxes and wool grease or wax, can
           pose  problems  in  the operation  of  biological  treatment  systems.  Scouring  of
           woollen goods is generally duplicated downstream to remove added substances.
           These include oils and weaving sizes or lubricants, which are removed  using
           detergents.

           Bleaching
           Bleaching removes the natural yellow hue of  cotton, increasing its whiteness.
           This operation is generally required if the finished fabric is to be white or dyed a
           light  colour.  It  is  usually  carried  out  by  chemical  oxidation  with  sodium
           hypochlorite  or  hydrogen  peroxide.  Auxiliary  chemicals  such  as  sulphuric
           acid,  hydrochloric  acid,  caustic  soda,  sodium  bisulphite,  surfactants  and
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