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lndustrial waters  141

             0  they  are  produced  in  large  volumes  (around  100-150  1 kg-l  textile
                product for the average dyeing and rinsing operation),
             0  they  are not  readily  biodegradable,  such that  conventional  municipal
                wastewater treatment plant will generally remove only around 20-30%  of
                colour associated with synthetic dyes, and
             0   they require removal to very low levels prior to discharge if consents based
                on colour are in place.

             Dyes  are  generally  small  molecules  comprising  two  key  components:  the
           chromophores, responsible for the colour, and the auxochromes, which can not
           only supplement the chromophore but also render the molecule soluble in water
           and give enhanced affinity toward the fibres (Trotman, 1984).  A large number of
           dyes are reported in specialised literature (Colour Index, 1987). These can be
           classified both by their chemical structure or their application to the fibre type
           (Table 3.24). Dyes may also be classified on the basis of  their solubility: soluble
           dyes include acid, mordant, metal complex, direct, basic and reactive dyes; and
           insoluble dyes include azoic, sulphur, vat and disperse dyes. An alternative dye
           classification that  refers  to  colour  removal  technologies  (Treffry-Goatley and
           Buckley,  1991)  places  the  various  classes  of  dyes  (with  respect  to  their
           application) into three groups depending on their state in solution and on the
           type of  charge the dye acquires. Each  group can be associated  with potential
           colour-removal methods (Table 3.2 5).
             Complex chemical and/or physical  mechanisms  govern the adsorption  and
           retention of  dyes by fibres. The adsorptive strength, levelling and retention are
           controlled  by  several  factors  such  as  time,  temperature, pH,  and  auxiliary
           chemicals (Nunn, 1979; Trotman, 1984; Preston, 1986; Shore, 1990).  A large
           range of  substances  other than dyes, auxiliary  chemicals  used  in the dyeing
           process, can be found in a dye effluent at any one time. The effluent composition
           and colour is further complicated by the fact that both dye fixation rates (Table
           3.2  6) and liquor ratios (the volume of dye solution per weight of goods) vary, and
           different dye classes may be  used  for a single dyeing operation  (Shore, 1990;
           Horning, 19 78). Moreover, continuous operation yields smaller volumes of more
           concentrated dyewaste than batch operation, equating to typically  a four-fold
           factorial difference with respect to dye concentration and a 2.5-fold difference in
           volume (Glover and Hill, 1993), some typical batch process effluent data being
           given in Table 3.2 7.

           Chemical finishing
           Chemical finishing processes include processes designed to change the optical,
           tactile, mechanical  strength or dirt-releasing  properties  of  the textile. Optical
           finishes  can  either brighten  or  deluster  the  textile  (NCDNER,  1995; OECD,
           198  1). Softeners and abrasion-resistant finishes are added to improve the feel or
           increase the ability of  the textile to resist abrasion and tearing. Absorbent  and
           soil release finishes alter  the surface tension  and other properties  to increase
           water  absorbency  or improve  soil  release.  Physical  stabilisation  and  crease-
           resistant  finishes,  which  may  include  formaldehyde-based  resin  finishes,
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