Page 553 - Book Hosokawa Nanoparticle Technology Handbook
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25 DEVELOPMENT OF NEW COSMETICS BASED ON NANOPARTICLES                        APPLICATIONS
                                                                 asperity such as skin wrinkles or skin pores.
                                                                 Recently, by coating spherical-shaped particles on
                                                                 plate particles, the powdery appearance is reduced
                                                                 while increasing the adherence to skin and increasing
                                                                 the defocusing effect. Even the PMMA nanoparticle
                                                                 coated red interference color pearl material men-
                                                                 tioned above is an example of this application, and in
                                                                 this case the two technologies of color correction by
                                                                 interference colors and shape correction by scattering
                                                                 have been combined.
                                                                  A functional optical particle with a fine feather-like
                                                                 coating has also been developed by growing fiber
                                                                 shaped crystals of zinc oxide in the nanolevel on the
                                                                 surface of titanium dioxide coated mica (Fig. 25.6).
                                                                 The diffused reflection characteristic is excellent due
                                                                 to the fibers of zinc oxide, and a finish with a very
                                                                 good natural translucent color is obtained. In addition,
                                                                 zinc oxide has the effect of solidifying sebum cuta-
                  Figure 25.5
                  Electron microscope photograph of PMMA coated particle.  neum, and has the feature that the makeup does not
                                                                 come off with elapsing of time.
                                                                  Even functional optical particles have been devel-
                  (2) Adapting to the environmental light        oped that have the effect of hiding sagging skin. For
                                                                 this, spherical moss shaped barium sulfate crystals of
                  While a skin with makeup applied to it looks whitish  1.0–1.5  m size are grown on the surface of red inter-
                  and has a floating appearance in sunlight outdoors,  ference color titanium dioxide coated mica (Fig. 25.7).
                  but appears as a blurred yellow surface indoors in flu-  Since light is incident from above on the forehead and
                  orescent light. In order to solve this problem, a pho-  cheeks of the face, while the moss shaped crystals
                  tochromic powder was developed using 25 nm     reflect light in a diffused manner, the titanium dioxide
                  titanium dioxide doped with iron [14]. These skin col-  coated mica reflects light directly and generates a red
                  ored nanoparticles change to golden brown color  color close to the skin color thereby rendering a natural
                  when exposed to ultraviolet light, and have not only  skin color.
                  the effect of preventing whitishness outdoors, but also  On the other hand, since the light is incident at an
                  have the effect of protecting against ultraviolet light.  inclined angle on the shadow areas such as sagging
                    By further developing this type of photochromic
                  nature, color-rendering type pearl material has been  parts, etc. of the skin, the moss shaped crystals reflect
                                                                 in a diffused manner almost the entire incident light
                  developed [15] that is not only bright but also has  thereby making the sagging parts of the skin not
                  changing color phase due to the effect of interference  prominent. In a sensory test conducted with women in
                  with titanium dioxide coated mica. For example, by  the age group of 40–50 years, the sags were decreased
                  coating iron doped titanium dioxide having pho-  resulting in a lifted-up appearance of the face, and
                  tochromic action on the surface of titanium dioxide  even in computer simulations, a result of the apparent
                  coated mica having red interference color, the mate-  age being 10 years younger than the actual age was
                  rial will appear white when no ultraviolet light is inci-  obtained.
                  dent on it, and when ultraviolet light is incident on it,
                  the outer layer changes to black and the interference  (4) Skin care particles [16]
                  color becomes clear. Therefore, the particle changes  While the major purpose of cosmetics is skin care, the
                  from white to red due to ultraviolet light. This color  so-called “skin care particles” have been developed
                  rendering type red pearl material prevents the blurred  that improve skin problems using the dermatology for
                  yellowish appearance under a fluorescent light with  this purpose. This particle, which cares for the skin by
                  slight yellowishness by generating a red interference  efficiently adsorbing and deactivating an enzyme
                  color.                                         called “urokinase” that induces dry skin, has, as is
                    On the other hand, under a strong light source such
                  as sunlight, the overall reflectivity decreases and  shown in Fig. 25.8, a coating of very thin silica of
                                                                 2–3 nm on zinc oxide of about 30 nm size. This skin
                  exhibits superior color rendering that prevents  care particle has a much higher skin care effect com-
                  whitishness. Because of this, it is possible to realize a  pared to only zinc oxide or only silica independently.
                  beautiful makeup skin in any light environment.
                                                                 The reason for this is considered to be that the amount
                                                                 of urokinase that is pulled and adsorbed by electrical
                  (3) Shape correction                           charge has been increased by the silica coating on the
                  It is possible to use the defocusing effect by light  zinc oxide, which itself has deactivating effect on
                  scattering of spherical particles in order to correct  urokinase.

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