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25 DEVELOPMENT OF NEW COSMETICS BASED ON NANOPARTICLES                        APPLICATIONS
                            APPLICATION 25

                   25       DEVELOPMENT OF NEW COSMETICS BASED ON NANOPARTICLES





                  The application of nanoparticles in the field of cos-  that can be used for emulsification are shear force,
                  metics goes back to the blending of ultrafine particles  shock force, and cavitation force.  The mechanical
                  of titanium dioxide in sunscreen in the 1980s. Using  forces other than these are frictional force, compres-
                  titanium dioxide ultrafine particles of about 30 nm  sion force, squeezing force, etc. and this kind of
                  size was the first step in sunscreen having a high  forces can be obtained in crushing equipment such as
                  ultraviolet ray protection capacity as well as high  mills, etc. In general, the mechanical forces required
                  transparency. Even at present, while 10–30 nm tita-  for emulsification and for crushing are different.
                  nium dioxide or zinc oxide particles are being used,  The apparatuses used for emulsification are:
                  such ultrafine particles of sizes less than 100 nm will  (1) low speed stirring machine; (2) high speed shear
                  be referred to here as nanoparticles.          stirring machine; (3) high pressure homogenizer;
                    Apart from the cosmetics in which the nanoparti-  (4) ultrasonic emulsifying machine; and (5) static
                  cles themselves are dispersed in this manner, com-  mixing machine; etc.
                  pound particles in which nanoparticles are arranged  Even in a formulation that includes the same oil as
                  in the base particles thereby realizing various optical  a white opaque cream, by changing the emulsified
                  characteristics are being used for makeup. In an emul-  particles into nanoparticles by applying pressure as
                  sified system, by making the emulsified particles to  shown in Fig. 25.1, the emulsion becomes transparent
                  have nanosizes, new values are given by changing the  and fluid like water. When this is applied to skin, there
                  tactile feel and transparency.                 is a feeling of smoothness and high penetration.
                    The application of nanoparticles in cosmetics that
                  include emulsified particles and the application of  (2) Nanoparticles in dispersed systems
                  compound particles in which form control is done  A typical application of nanoparticles is cosmetics for
                  using nanoparticles are described here.
                                                                 sunscreen. In sunscreen, nanoparticles of titanium
                                                                 dioxide or zinc oxide are mixed in addition to organic
                  1. Use of nanoparticles                        ultraviolet ray absorbing materials. The causes that
                                                                 control the ultraviolet ray protection by nanoparticles
                  (1) Nanoparticles in emulsion                  are the absorption effect and the scattering effect.
                  Emulsification and solubilization technologies are  The electronic structure of a crystalline compound
                  used in skin care cosmetics such as skin lotions, skin  such as titanium dioxide can be represented by model
                  milks, and creams. For example, by changing the  of “a valence band filled with electrons and a con-
                  sequence of mixing or the pressure in the process of  duction band where no electrons are present but there
                  mixing water and oil, it is possible to control the size  are empty orbits” as is shown in Fig. 25.2 [6]. The
                  of the emulsified particles from the usual 1–10 m to  electrons are not allowed to have energy values in
                  several tens of nanometers.                    between these bands. This band is called the forbid-
                    Among the methods of preparing ultrafine emul-  den band, and its width is called the band gap.
                  sions are the surface chemical methods and the  When light is incident on a solid, only the lights
                  mechanical methods. In the surface chemical methods,  with energies greater than the band gap are absorbed
                  although the dispersion methods such as the phase  and electrons in the valence band are excited to the
                  transfer emulsification method [1], the HLB tempera-  conduction band. The band gaps of titanium dioxide
                  ture emulsification method [2], the D phase emulsifi-  and zinc oxide are about 3 eV, which correspond to
                  cation method [3], the amino acid gel emulsification  the energy of light with a wavelength of about 410 nm.
                  method [4], etc. are common, sometimes the aggrega-  Since the electrons in titanium dioxide and zinc oxide
                  tion methods too are used. As an example of an aggre-  absorb lights of wavelengths shorter than this and
                  gation method, Nakajima et al. [5] have reported that it  become excited, they have the effect of absorbing
                  is possible to prepare ultrafine emulsions of particles  ultraviolet light.
                  with sizes of less than 50 nm by initially solubilizing a  The particle diameters of fine particles have a large
                  system of surfactant, oil, and water, and then cooling  effect on light scattering and concealing power.
                  it quickly to room temperature thereby transferring to  Table 25.1 shows a comparison of light blocking effect
                  a dual phase region in the phase diagram.      of particles dividing the particle diameters into three
                    Further, an emulsifying machine having a large  regions taking the wavelength of light as the basis [7].
                  shear force is required in order to obtain an emulsion  When the particle diameter is extremely large com-
                  with small particle diameters. The mechanical forces  pared to the wavelength of light, in proportion to the

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