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               velocity equal to that at the Mean Water Level (MWL) in the crest. Linear extrapolation of the
               kinematics above MWL is obtained by, for example, replacing eqn (5.8) by



                                                                                                   (5.12)



               A more sophisticated approach commonly used is the so-called Wheeler stretching (Wheeler,
               1970). This modification introduces a new vertical co-ordinate which moves together with the
               free surface. The velocity potential Φand the corresponding kinematics can then be obtained
               by introducing a co-ordinate z instead of z in eqn (5.8); with                 . This
                                            c
               means that the kinematic quantities have the same size and vertical distribution, only now
               with the free surface as starting point instead of the MWL, as shown in Figure 5.5b.
               Gudmestad (1993) recently reviewed various engineering approximations to wave kinematics
               and compared them with experimental results.
                 A deficiency of the original and modified Airy theory is that it provides symmetric waves
               while extreme waves are known to be asymmetric (i.e. with a larger crest than trough). Higher
               order wave theories have been proposed to better represent the shape and kinematics of the
               waves (see e.g. Clauss et al., 1991).

               Higher order wave theory
               The linear wave theory represents a first order approximation of the free surface conditions,
               which means that errors will become large as the waves become higher (i.e. as   increases),
               because of the neglected higher order terms. This deficiency can be improved by introducing
               higher order terms. Commonly this is done by means of perturbation theory. Wave elevation
               and velocity potential are then expanded into power series, with a being a small perturbation
               parameter, so that the significance of additional terms decreases with their order (see e.g.
               Sarpkaya and Isaacson, 1981)



                                                                                                   (5.13)




                                                                                                   (5.14)

                                          (i)
               Each individual potential Φ satisfies both the Laplace equation and the non-linear boundary
               conditions with successive refinement. At the free surface, the velocity potential is expanded
               as a Taylor series about the still water level to obtain successive approximations of higher
               order wave theories:



                                                                                                   (5.15)



               The perturbation parameter (α turns out to be      . The second order expansion
                                            )
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