Page 49 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

36 Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

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Face

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Fig. 4.12 Placement of fabric plies performing ‘face to face single direction’ spreading mode.

Back

Face

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Fig. 4.13 Placement of fabric plies performing ‘face to face both directions’ spreading mode.

This spreading mode is used for materials with a short cut pile (velvet, corduroy,
plush, and artificial fur) to prevent the plies form slipping during the spreading and
cutting processes (see Section 18.3).

4.3.5 ‘Face to face in both directions’ or 'zig-zag' spreading mode

The fabric is spread in both directions. At the end of each ply, the fabric is folded,
and spreading continues in the opposite direction. So, the first ply has its face side
up, the second ply has its face side down, and the third ply is again face side up (see
Fig. 4.13). ‘Zig-zag’ spreading may be used for different fabrics. It does not require
the fabric plies to be cut, thus saving time. It is also possible to save material as there
is no need for safety allowances (see Section 4.2.3) at the end of a spread. If requires,
folded material plies may be also separated by shears or a knife. This spreading mode
cannot be used in following situations:

Where the rejection of fabric faults has to carried out during the spreading;
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Where a style has asymmetrical components;
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Where a fabric has an asymmetrical pattern and its location in the style is strictly determined.
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4.4 Dealing with different kinds of spreads

4.4.1 Joining several markers within one spread

Short markers are typical for garments with a small number of components (tops,
skirts, and trousers) or those for articles of one size. Therefore, it is necessary to lay
short spreads. However, short spreads have the several disadvantages: