Page 50 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

Principles and methods of textile spreading 37

Part of a spreading table surface is unused.
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When compared with long spreads, more work and time are required to cut the material plies.
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When compared with long spreads, more material is lost at the ends of the spread in making
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safety allowances (see Section 4.2.3).
The disadvantages of short spreads can be avoided by joining short markers and
laying them within one spread. If markers with the same ordered garment quantities
(number of plies) are united in one spread, a traditional spreading process is per-
formed. If several markers with different ordered quantities are united to lay in one
spread, a step kind spread has to be performed.

4.4.2 Joining markers for orders with equal ordered quantities
In this situation, markers are joined from which, the same number of articles have to be
cut, for example, 50 pieces, size 38; 50 pieces, size 42; and 50 pieces, size 48. Joining
markers for orders with equal ordered quantities may be performed in two ways, placing
the markers consecutively or placing them consecutively and then joining their ends.
Markers may be placed consecutively if the pattern pieces are placed closely to-
gether and there are no unused fabric areas at their ends (see Fig. 4.14). In this situa-
tion, clear borders remain between the markers, and time is not taken up in cutting at
the borders. Thus, 2–4 cm fabric is saved at each border (the safety fabric allowance at
the beginning or end of a marker).
When making markers for garments with large or lengthy components and only a small
number of smaller size components (e.g. skirts and trousers), unused fabric areas often re-
main at the end of the markers. A similarly inefficient use of fabric may result when pattern
pieces are placed obliquely within a marker (e.g. skirts and dresses). When short markers
are joined, the unused fabric areas at their ends may be moved together; see Fig. 4.15
(often, one of the markers will have to be turned through 180 degrees). A common area
for both markers is defined, reducing both their length and the fabric usage. Normally it is
possible to save 20–50 cm of fabric by moving together two markers in this way.

44 44 36
44 44 36 36
44 44
44 36 36
44 44
36
44 44 36
36 36 36 36
44 44 36
36
44
44 44 36 36
36
44 44 36 36
44 44 36
36
Size 44 Size 36
1 cm 1 cm

Fig. 4.14 Two markers placed one after the other to spread at the same time.