Page 56 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

Principles and methods of textile spreading 43

4.5.3 The optimal use of fabric pieces with faults

Different actions may be taken in leaving out faults and accurately cutting components.
These actions depend on the nature of a fault and its position on the ply. If the fault is
small; not easily noticeable; and placed on a seam allowance, hemline turning, or some
other barely visible place of the garment (e.g. in the armpit area of a sleeve, on a fac-
ing, or underneath a collar), it may be left and further cutting of the component carried
out. The fault may also be left in a spread if its position on the fabric is in the area in-
between pattern pieces and it will not influence the quality of any component. If the
fault is larger or placed on a large-, medium-, or small-size component, the optimal use
of the fabric piece will be determined by the shape of the fault. The work process may
be carried out manually or using automated fault registration systems (see Section 6.7).

4.5.4 Fabric pieces with faults in the shape of spots
If the fault is a spot, the marker is placed on a piece of fabric to determine its location.
Depending on the size of the component in which the fault occurs, the following ac-
tions may be performed:
1. If the fault is on a small component, it may be left in the spread. The pattern piece with the
fault is then indicated in the marker to show that the component will have to be recut during
the final operations (see Section 12.3). The other option is to cut out the fault in the closest
splice area as this may involve less time and work than recutting the faulty component later.
2. If the fault is on a large component, the marker must be turned through 180 degrees to see the
position of the fault in the new marker position:
● If the fault influences a smaller size component in the new marker position (see Fig. 4.25),
the fabric piece will need to be turned through 180 degrees and the fault cut out at the
closest splice area. Alternatively, the component with the fault may be left in the spread
and recut during the final operations.
● If the fault appears on a large component in the new marker position, the fabric is left in
the original position, and the fault is cut out in the closest splice area.

4.5.5 Fabric plies with faults appearing in stripes
across the fabric
Textile faults often appear in the weft direction of a woven fabric or in the direction of
the wales in a knitted fabric and are visible throughout the entire fabric width. In this
case, the following actions are necessary:
The marker is placed on the spread to determine the location of the fault.
●
If the fault is not located close enough to the splice area (see Fig. 4.26), the fabric ply may be
●
moved from the beginning of the spread and placed on the first splice mark of another splice area.
The piece of fabric is laid in a new position to see if the faulty piece that has to be cut off is
●
shorter than in the original position. When the most economical position of the splice has
been found, the ply is spread from the first mark of that splice (see Fig. 4.27, lower fabric
ply). The fabric is then taken back to the beginning of the spread and laid up to the second
mark of the selected splice (see Fig. 4.27, upper fabric ply).